This method works for me.
I set the points for the L/H cylinder to the correct gap on the heel of the cam at TDC, then the R/H points the same. With the spark plugs out and the bike in 3rd gear I rotate the rear wheel in a forward direction and with the ignition on, when the points open with a good battery fitted they crack or you could earth a spark plug for the same audible crack.
As the timing is close I turn the generator to achieve the correct timing of the L/H cylinder crack to the pin slotting into the hole in the crank, this should be good enough to have the engine running. To get it really accurate I'd screw a special DTI that I have down the spark plug hole and measure the DBTDC as written somewhere and then make any adjustments by slightly moving the points for either cylinder and then checking the points gap again.
I found this works for me but I'm sure other owner's have their own method.
Z