Bridgestone Motorcycle Parts Discussion Board
Bridgestone Tech Talk => 350 Talk => Topic started by: Kenneth Pagel on July 18, 2018, 03:52:07 PM
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I'd like to replace the generator wires, being that they are 50 years old, that (of course) run to the wiring harness, condensers, etc. This involves opening the case, (duh!) and before I do this, how easy is it to replace these wires? I'm pretty convident that the windings are ok, as this GTR (a 1967) started and ran when I got it few years ago. Not being a wiring expert, is this an easy enough job to tackle, or should I send it out for such a repair, and any reccomendations on who to use?
Also interested in a solid-state regulator/rectifier update. Can one trust the orignal components because of their age?
Thanks in advance!
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The wires aren't difficult to replace with a little soldering. Get some 1/2 heat shrink tubing, correct color wire, etc. ahead of time. Even find a new grommet at the hardware store if you can. The generator comes apart relatively easily, just bearings with a light press in the bores.
If your current rectifier is working, it will probably continue to work. However, they eventually corrode between the plates at the center and then it's dead and you can't fix them. If you want to go to newer tech, you can use two regular bridge rectifiers with 4 terminals and just leave two empty, or look for a 3 phase bridge rectifier which will have 5 terminals just like the current selenium rectifier. You can buy them with either spade terminals or screw terminals.
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The wires aren't difficult to replace with a little soldering. Get some 1/2 heat shrink tubing, correct color wire, etc. ahead of time. Even find a new grommet at the hardware store if you can. The generator comes apart relatively easily, just bearings with a light press in the bores.
If your current rectifier is working, it will probably continue to work. However, they eventually corrode between the plates at the center and then it's dead and you can't fix them. If you want to go to newer tech, you can use two regular bridge rectifiers with 4 terminals and just leave two empty, or look for a 3 phase bridge rectifier which will have 5 terminals just like the current selenium rectifier. You can buy them with either spade terminals or screw terminals.
Karl, what is the source for "newer tech" parts you refer to; i would like to put the info in my file. Thanks, steve swan
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Karl, would also thank you for comments on replacing alternator wires, haven't tried that yet.
Did find this 3 phase rectifier here in UK, would appreciate your opinion on whether it would be up to the job. Nice compact unit and very reasonably priced.
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/bridge-rectifiers/3953216/ (https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/bridge-rectifiers/3953216/)
Brian.
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Oldswartout and others; Thanks for the info! I'm going to try to repalce the wires myself. I'll post photos.
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Karl, what is the source for "newer tech" parts you refer to; i would like to put the info in my file. Thanks, steve swan
I just meant semiconductor diodes commonly used today vs. selenium rectifiers.
Brian, that 3-phase bridge looks ideal. Bolt it directly to something metal, like an aluminum bracket or sheet, or in good contact with the battery box, to conduct heat away.
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For solid state rectifiers talk to the experts like: https://www.rmstator.com/en_ww/ or https://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/.
Or...put a 12V Bosch type relay in the red + lines between the battery and rectifier and power it with a line spliced to the blue keyswitch wire. This will keep your battery from draining, but make sure charging is taking place.
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if you guys have put a solid state rectifier in where are you mounting it ? the same spot for the selenium rectifier?
cheers