Bridgestone Motorcycle Parts Discussion Board
Bridgestone Tech Talk => 50, 60, 90 & 100 Talk => Topic started by: fahrkle on May 01, 2016, 03:25:00 PM
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OK - Thanks again to moonpup for the lead!!! I have the 90 home. 2200 original miles. It has been sitting for an unknown amount of time, but was covered AND FUEL DRAINED! Someone was thinking!! I will clean the carb anyway, and probably change motor oil. What are people running for motor oil in these now. I also see a lot of people are running a 20:1 mixture injection oil. I run 100:1 Amsoil synthetic in EVERY premix small engine I own - chainsaw, weed whip, backpack blower. Has anyone tried Amsoil injection in the oil tank on these? I will still run a premix to start in the tank but I figured I would probably put 100"1 in the fuel tank as well. Also, the oil tank is drained and does the oil pump self bleed or do you have to manually bleed the pump like a snowmobile? Is anyone running a hotter plug than what they came with or sticking with original? THANKS for your input and responses!!
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Change the transmission oil, use just plain old 30W engine oil, but be certain to NOT use a modern oil that says anything about reduced friction, improved mileage, etc. Those have friction modifiers that will play havoc with your clutch. Personally, I'd suggest a stronger mix than 100:1 until you're assured the oil pump is working. Amsoil is good stuff, but 60's engines didn't have the materials or design of more modern engines and need a richer mix. There is no downside to mixing it richer, in fact more than one study from years ago, showed increasing horsepower with increasing oil ratio all the way to less than 20:1. Don't run a hotter plug unless you are having trouble fouling them due to short easy trips that never highly load the engine.
I'm not certain about 90's, but 175's and 350's, I usually just loosen the input oil line at the pump until oil runs out there, tighten it, then idle the engine with a bit of premix while holding the pump wide open. Run until it is obvious from the smoke that oil is getting into the engine.
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Karl,
How about using synthetic oil i.e. Royal purple 10w30 or similar? Thanks, Steve
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That should be OK, and probably would provide better gear and shift fork lubrication. It's just the oils with additives to provide reduced engine friction (better mileage) that are the problem.
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Hello again guys!! What are you running for a direct replacement battery. The one in this one is a GS 6N4A-4D. Any others?
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Enclosed are pics of when I picked it up and when I cleaned it up.
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More Pics
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Nice looking bike! I have to admit, I prefer the "without accessories" look. :D
...bert
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Thank you. So do I. As much as the owner tried, you can't make it a Harley.
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The 90 looks great.
Randy
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Nope, ain't no Harley...and that's a good thing...Just a very nicely presented Bridgestone. Awesome! (I'm a little biased...). ;D
...bert
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Thanks for the comments!! I will need a new rear rim OR would it be cheaper to disassemble and have re-chromed? The rear rim is pretty rusted and pitted. The front I think is okay. It would appear someone repainted the side covers and top of the tank. The color looks good, but in the right angle of the sunlight, the frame and stuff is a different color red. Not sure what to do as bike is really pretty clean otherwise. I also need a pair of mirrors. And one other question - I see some bikes with Bridgestone emblems on both side covers and some without. Did the bike originally come with one on each side? Thanks!!
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I also need front and rear mud flaps. The ones that were on there said YAMAHA
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I use the Amsoil Interceptor oil in my Sport 90 and 350. Seems to work fine.
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I also dumped the transmission oil. I put in 30 weight non detergent. Now, when I start it, it is as if the clutch doesn't work when you put it in gear. It will die if rear tire is on ground because when you pull in clutch and put it in first, it just wants to go as if you never used the clutch. I have to kick start it in first gear with clutch in and it seems to "break" the seal. Ever had this?
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All the time.... did it just the other day...... the steel plates stick now and again..... ive put the bike up against a tree of the shop wall,,, start the bike and let the clutch out slowly..... works every time...... you don,t want to know the long term fix..... done that one more than once...... i have 250 kaw on the lift right now... has,ent run in years...... i found 2 quarts of water in the gas tank and those little black flying bugs in the bottom of the carb??????? how the hell did they get in there ?????? But i did get her running today!!!!!! more work on her in the next days...... 8)
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I can't let clutch out - it dies as soon as I put it in gear. I have found I actually have to start it in first gear with clutch in and they must break apart as I am trying to kick start it. It never happened with the old and I assume original oil. I know the old oil had paraphins (wax) in it and I am just wondering if what is left in there is causing some of that. I just figured the oil was 50 years old so it was time - moisture and such - but it was golden when I dumped it. But you never know.