Bridgestone Motorcycle Parts Discussion Board
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: jdbushnell on October 23, 2021, 05:46:20 PM
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Restoring a 1970 Mk II SS 200 for over a year now. Nearly done but for the life of me I cant get the L side to fire as well as the L side. New battery, new coils with new wires/caps, fresh fuel without ethanol, rejetted carbs dozens of times, checked timing over and over, changed plugs several times, replaced carbs with new, pulled engine apart and checked timing marks/installation of rotary valves, etc. I am at my wits end and just dont have any more thoughts. Anyone else out there ever have this problem? Anything else I can check? I can start and even ride the bike but the L side is very wet, pops and doesnt run smoothly like the R. I even get fuel dripping from muffler joints on the L after running it for a while and the L side exhaust header and cylinder head are less than half as hot as the R side so I know that the fuel isnt burning completely. Feels to me that maybe its only sending a spark to the plug 1/2 the time. Thanks! I am losing interest in this project as a result and would really like to finish it.
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How far apart have you had the engine? What are the current compression figures for both sides? Have the points and condenser been replaced? Have you looked at the exhaust baffle on the problem side for potential blocking? Have you set the o.i. pump, and do you know for sure the check valve for that side is working properly? If not, it could be drooling oil after shut off and picking it up when restarting. Your problem may not be as much fuel related as oil fouling.
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l recently done a simple muffler change and the bike wouldn’t run right after ld fitted it l couldn’t work out why it didn’t make sense so l took the muffler back off and away it went the muffler was blocked something had been nesting in it and that was the reason cleaned it out problems solved
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Hello JD,
Sorry to hear you are having so much trouble with the 200 but two stroke twins can be very troublesome sometimes.
The ignition needs to be proven good first.
Buy two of these and install them:
https://www.2fastmoto.com/Lighted-90-Degree-Spark-Plug-Cap-Clear_p_190.html
They are great for quickly sorting problems with ignition systems.
If you have an ignition misfire the light output will flicker or go dull, instantly indicating a problem.
You should be seeing flashes of light from each cylinder with identical brightness at low speeds and two identical, steady glows at higher speeds.
The brightness will fall at the higher speeds (due to the fixed Dwell Angle) but they should both be the same brightness, with no drop-outs.
You are lucky you have one good cylinder to compare things against.
The lamp brightness relates directly to the electrical energy (milli-Joules, or mj) of the spark!
I have high-tech equipment for testing ignitions but I always reach for these little gadgets first when I get troubles.
They literally show you the ignition's performance.
Good Luck & let's know how you get on please.
Best Regards,
Mike Munday,
Melbourne, Australia
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Thanks for the feedback. I hadnt thought of the oil pump. Its been adjusted per the service manual but I can take the one way valves off and test them. I will try the 2fastmoto products as well. I like the idea there. I pulled the generator yesterday and sending it to Rex's Speed Shop for rebuild and electronic ignition if they can fit one so it'll be a couple months before I get to try it again. That's gets the points out of the equation. Exhaust is clear but excellent thought.
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Another quick way to validate that would be to disable the o.i. and run it on some 32:1 premix just to see if it cleans up and runs. (After you get your dynamo back). if memory serves, there's a drain plug under the crank cavity on each side. You might want to pull the one on the problem side just for kicks to see if there's any big residual amounts in the cavity. It's a good tattle-tale. Again, all this assuming compression is strong and equal. Good luck with it.
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Here's my instructions on adding an electronic ignition to a 350. The same instructions apply to later model 175/200s, plus there are instructions for early model 175s elsewhere. If you search this site for "electronic ignition" you'll find other electronic ignitions referenced also. No need to reinvent the wheel.
https://bridgestonemotorcycleparts.com/index.php?topic=3645.msg19684#msg19684
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Karl, that conversion looks excellent. If Rex's doesnt have a solution I will use yours. Its taking a long time to get the generator rewired so may be another month before I can get it back to try this. Thanks
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Wondering how this good spark/poor spark situation played out...? a number of years ago i had a similar situation with a early 1965 Yamaha YDS3C Big Bear Scrambler but not to the extreme of blowing raw gas out the exhaust and fouling the plug. Timing set using dial indicator, new points, new condensers. Drove me nuts until i sold the bike and forgot about it until now... Kind regards to all.
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Karl, couple questions on the conversion. I have the Dyna S for a KZ1000. Its similar to the one you show on the jpg's. I am a little unclear on how to connect the wires between the alternator and the Dyna coils. Each coil has a red wire, one coil also has a white wire and the other a black wire (believe this is exactly the same as your Dyna on the jpg's). The alternator has 5 wires total. A black one and a white one go from the harness into the points compartment at the end of the alternator (the other end of these wires go to their respective coils). The other 3 go from the alternator coils and into the harness to attach at the rectifier. I am unclear what to connect to the black and the white harness wires that enter the points compartment. Also, you mention a ground wire and it is shown just below the new rotor on the jpg. I am unclear on where that wire comes from. I can send photos if you share your cell number or email with me. My cell is 719-660-6345 if its easier for you to text or call. Thanks!! Jeff
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Installed the Dyna S as outlined by OldSwartout. Also put in a new solid state bananarectifier. Bike started up in a few kicks and seems to work better now. Spark definitely hotter. Will need some final tuning but overall a huge change! Karl, appreciate the hand holding. It was well worth the effort. I believe the new rectifier solved the charging problem as well. I had the generator checked out by Rex's Speed Shop in the UK and they said there was nothing wrong with it but suggested a solid state rectifier (cautioned me not to buy any crap off from ebay) which I believe solved the problem.