Broken cylinder stud..

[alexm846]

Hey all,

I've got a 175 DT here and just I thought I would try and properly torque the head nuts after putting them back on.  Went for 29 ft/lbs with the 12mm nuts based on the chart (am I interpreting that right?), and broke a stud.  Anyone know how much of a head ache this might be to replace, and how it can be done?

Thanks!
Alex from Maine

[premiumjo]

Alex, The torque spec for cylinder head nuts is 140 inch pounds (11.6 ft/lb) so you torqued them a little too much. Is the stud broken above the crankcase? if so and there is thread there, soak it good with penetrating oil, double nut it and try backing it out that way. you may need to heat the case up a little if it doesnt want to budge. If it is down in the hole, it can be a bitch. sometimes ez outs work, sometimes they break off making things lots worse. I'm sure others here have some good tricks up there sleeve as well, but if youre not comfortable with it, a machine shop can probably help you out. If you dont have a manual, go to the top of this page to Manuals/articles and download one.
rd

[alexm846]

Thanks for the response!
Ya it broke just under the nut so I'll give this a try...

[premiumjo]

That should be easy-pie. Just make sure when you are taking the stud out, you go easy. If it doesnt want to turn, use Pen-oil. You should be able to fine a a replacement stud (try Richard Clark), or even make one with some rod and a metric die. 45 year old bikes are fun eh?

[OldSwartout]

One of these is very useful in removing cylinder studs as long as there is a reasonable length left to grip. The suggestion to use heat at the end in the crankcase will help a lot, too.

Just search for Lisle stud remover.  Should be about $25-$30, although you'll find places asking much more. Available at some Sears hardware stores. It's a good addition to anyone's workshop.