350 ENGINE MODS

[RobL]

Hi All, It's been a while since I last posted. I am at the point where I need to make some hard decisions about my GTO. I have a GTR on the back burner awaiting resto also. I've decided to build the GTO as a bike I will ride and show. It will be all BS except perhaps the bars and exhaust. I want to build the engine to a higher state of tune, i.e, milled heads, chambers, perhaps some porting. I have all the New/NOS parts for the build and then some for support, but I want to get the engine right the first time. I'm not a novice, but don't want to do any experimenting! I have one overriding question and that is to use the oil injection or not? I know that I will have to have the rods prepped for oil mist lubrication, but are there any other problems I need to overcome if I abandon it? I don't want to destroy an expensive engine because of the injection system and the outboard crank bearing lubrication is a concern of mine! I want the bike to remain streetable, so I'm not looking for roadracer power, just a nice little "bump"! That being said, how usable are the BS tuning blueprints? Any experience with pipes, Jemco or others? I can have the BS pattern made here locally, are they usable for street? Any help from the racers or hot rodders here would be greatly appreciated! I don't plan on racing or thrashing the bike, but some occasional spirited riding is in order! I posted pics as it is now under 350 photos. Thanks, Robl

[OldSwartout]

In my opinion, since you won't race it, use the oil injection. If you're going to have the crank apart, it would be a good idea to go ahead and slot the rods, though. The injection pump shouldn't have any problem keeping up, normally they have to be turned down for street riding.  If you use oil injection only, you probably should have the crank end seals or slotted rods.

If you do go with pre-mix only, in addition to slotting the rods, remove the end seals from the crankshaft (if they are still there), that'll let the mix circulate through the end bearings better.

[RobL]

Karl, Thanks! You've made me feel a little better about removing the oil inj. I normally would'nt do it, but I don't want to take any chances with the engine or have to worry about crank bearing lubrication! I plan on using the bike as a show-n-go machine and just want something with a little "edge" to it so the YamaKawaSuzi guys can all gasp! (LOL) Seriously though, it will be the only running BS350 within 150-200 miles (Bob Lombardi), so it's going to be a treat for everybody. I plan on using it on local "loops" of 100 mile or less, so I'll have plenty of range. Back when I was a teenager (late 60's-70's) I messed around with Kaw rotary valve bikes and hopped them up using the engineering someone else did, I don't remember exactly, but magazine articles or maybe the local shop, but it was pretty much common knowledge how to get more power from them, i.e: cut disc, mill head, pipe and rejet or larger carb. So I know my way around the engines, but I also know they're easy to screw up and I don't want to go in blindly or do any real experimenting, so I was looking for some sage advice, tried and true tuning! I've got a GTR that's going to be "restored" for who knows who or some museum after I die (no rush on that!!!) This is my "fun" bike and the neat thing about that is this bikes' chassis is going to be built from a mixture of excellent used and NOS parts (the seconds), so it should have a very pleasing appearance! Thanks again, Robl