Bridgestone Motorcycle Parts Discussion Board
Bridgestone Tech Talk => 175 & 200 Talk => Topic started by: Romaine on October 16, 2013, 12:05:25 AM
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I pulled it out of the garage and put wd40 on the rusty spots..
Ordered a set of foot pegs off eBay (sorry Richard - it was an impulse buy)
Its gonna be a long Winter..
(Chime and and update what you did to your Bridgestone)
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It wasn't today, but I raced my 175 at Barber Motorsports in Birmingham AL over the weekend in the 200 and 250 classes. Not running as fast as I wanted, however the bike ran pretty good with a new undercut gearbox.
paul
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Been stringing up front and rear wheels for my GTR showbike project. Lots of fun. Pictures soon.
Later Mike
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Hey Mike, redoing my wheels is a task in front of me. I do not have any previous experience with respoking and truing, so was wondering if you had a pointer to any good "how to" info. Thanks...
...bert
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Not really. First thing is a good assembly and truing stand. Steve Reed is the best advisor I know. The main thing is putting it together the way it came apart and then just adjust till running true. Good luck
Later Mike
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I am doing another GTR Bridgestone, plus i have just picked up a 1966 Triumph 650 120R that i am going to build it came with a sad story! it need to be finished etc.
Thanks.
Steve.
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Bert
ray k gave me a hodaka pamphlet on trueing and lacing it comes in very handy . cheers
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Thanks for the lead Coxy!
...bert
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I Tore Apart 2 100 TAKAs The Frame Was Broke One 1 The Other Looks Good Blasted & Primed The Frame & Swing Arm Tonight Don't See A Lot Of Them Fixed Up So Had To Have One GENE
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Bought a Bridgestone 175 Dual Twin Technical Handbook off of EBAY!!
Its gonna be a long Winter..
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Hi Gene,
Nice to see another Bridgestone member building a Taka. I think most people miss the Taka's neat factor. It is my favorite bike next to my SR-100. They are great to ride around county roads etc. Actually set up like a big bike and are comfortable to ride. Good luck with it.
Later Mike
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Bought 2 cans of Fluid film and sprayed down the 175 HS - I heard this product was much better than WD40 - and then I moved it to my outdoor shed for storage... I dont want anymore rust..
http://www.fluid-film.com/ (http://www.fluid-film.com/)
Just waiting for Spring...
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I got through a bit of wiring and reinstalled my cleaned up points. Added a little premix to the carbs and got it to kick over. Ran for about 20 seconds till it ran dry. Hearing that thing run made all the work worth it and makes me excited for when I get it ready to ride in the summer.
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I just acquired a step thru homer,sprayed it down with wd 40 pulled the side cover off kick start side .The kick start shaft is broke off right outside of case .The inside looks real clean turns over with compression .Pulled plug out cleaned.Meanwhile battery has been on charge and to my surprise it charged up 80 % .Sprayed wd 40 in cylinder to lube a little installed battery, put vise grips on kick start shaft turned key on horn works green light on speedo works so I put a little cap full of gas oil mix in jug and quickly put plug and wire on and when I went to turn it over to see if I could get a putter of any sort I accidently hit the rear brake pedal shorting the 1 amp fuse and I don't have another laying around.So I,ll try again tomorrow.Kinda wanna restore this old bike 400 original miles but its pretty solid.I,ll have to get new rims and spokes,handle bars,seat recovered and paint if the motor runs that is.Im glad I found this sight and look forward to asking advice and any input.This little scooter has been sitting outside a house for years leaning against the air conditioner stand and the lady finally gave it to me the third time ask over a period of three years.I ordered a few parts off ebay before I found this sight so from here out I will get ahold of Richard for further parts.Thanks for having me Richard's relics and members.
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http://youtu.be/ewdEBreVlrY
got it to kick over fairly good last night but it didn't idle for long. this is how it runs every time i get it started but with no idle. any suggestions on things to look for. i should be getting some time in on it tomorrow.
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Finally got my 350 GTO started today. Have been working out some details and last thing to do was get a battery rigged up and put the left muffler back on. Got the fuel system primed with 2 stroke mix and it fired 3rd kick. Seems to run very well but there are some issues:
1) In trying to get the injector system primed up, it looks like I have good flow to the left cylinder (regular pulse of oil through the line until it reached the cylinder), but the right cylinder is looking suspicious. There were air bubbles in the line as the oil was flowing up, and although the line to the right cylinder is shorter, the oil still has not reached the cylinder yet. Any thoughts anyone?
2) The clutch is not working right. Cable was very stiff, I lubed it, but clutch action still slow. Going to have to take things apart and see whats going on. When I let the clutch out, it takes a second or 2 before it starts to grab. When it grabs, the bike will just stall, as if it's in fifth gear or something. What is the shift pattern on these? Wasn't sure if it's all down or all up or what.
3) Headlight still doesn't work. Tested bulb and it's good, no power on the wire from ignition switch to headlight switch. Not sure why.
Link to youtube vid: http://youtu.be/FFSHhippBjs (http://youtu.be/FFSHhippBjs)
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I ordered more stainless bolts for my 175/200 (haven't decided what engine to use yet) and polished more stuff.
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2) The clutch is not working right. Cable was very stiff, I lubed it, but clutch action still slow. Going to have to take things apart and see whats going on. When I let the clutch out, it takes a second or 2 before it starts to grab. When it grabs, the bike will just stall, as if it's in fifth gear or something. What is the shift pattern on these? Wasn't sure if it's all down or all up or what.
grundlegrabber, the shift pattern is 6 down (to upshift). Also see page 31 of the manual. Start with the trans in neutral (as many ups as it takes to get there) and then you should find the 6 down pattern working.
...bert
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It seems like all I do is clean 40 years worth of dirt, grease and other accumulated filth off of part after part. I cant wait to actually start putting clean parts together rather than taking dirty stuff apart.
I actually did start painting the frame, swing arm, headlight bucket and fork covers. My OCD has me wet sanding off 90% of the paint i put on.
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I know exactly how you feel dcr! I decided to have someone powder coat everything this time around after my 90 took me a year and a half to paint. So much easier just to bolt everything together and it's seems a lot tougher.
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It was a long winter..
Pulled the old girl out of the shed today..
Created a build thread to document what Im doing.
Reading through all the threads for advice.
Putting an email together for Richard..
What else is everyone doing? ???
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So, it was 115 deg in Tucson yesterday (expecting 113 today). Summer is Tucson's equivalent of winter further north...not much happening except staying cool.
...bert
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So, it was 115 deg in Tucson yesterday (expecting 113 today). Summer is Tucson's equivalent of winter further north...not much happening except staying cool.
...bert
See you in San Diego soon?
paul
(haha...just an inside joke!)
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Paul, we are true zonies. Seems like almost every vacation is somewhere out in SoCal. Enjoy the cool. We'll be there soon!
...bert
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Before scrubbed?
Ordered some parts this week - Clutch and Brake levers, Carb and Air cleaner Boots..
Today..
Took left muffler off and used Flix to scrub the rust spec off - this things needs a lot of cleaning and polishing..
Have to clean tank and remove rust - hate to "seal" it though.. I think that takes a long time... but what choice do I really have?
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Have to clean tank and remove rust - hate to "seal" it though.. I think that takes a long time... but what choice do I really have?
Once you have the tank cleaned, sealing it doesn't take much more time, cleaning is the longer process. If it's just rust, from various posts here, evaporust apparently works well, although I've always used electrolysis. Electrolysis leaves a phosphated surface that is similar to the factory internal finish that resists rust for quite some time and I don't normally seal afterward. Here's the link to both: http://kawtriple.com/mraxl/rust_removal.htm, plus there are various threads on this forum about those and other methods.