Electrical help needed

[old smokey]

you can probably say "I told you so".
Tonight I fired it up as it was getting dark and skeeters were coming.
With the key to #2 headlight on, I took readings on the back side of the ignition switch.
At around 2800 rpm, the blue, yellow and red wires read about 11.7-11.8 volts.
But the white and brown both read only 5.7-5.8 volts.
I guess that's enough to convict the dynamo as the culprit for poor charging.
Next is to pull it and hope no bolts sheer off.
I suppose I don't know if anything can repaired on this one until I open it up.
But all the above readings are with my multi-meter set for DC voltage.
If the white and brown leads are dealing with AC voltage, would my reading only be half of the AC value?

[reed]

Oldsmokey
You got it you went back to basics!
Try Richard he may have it in stock.
Remember you will have to reset the timing
When you remove the dynamo.
Glad you found it.
Thanks.
Reed.

[old smokey]

Tonight I fired up the 350 to see what the wires on the back side of the key switch read with the multi-meter set to read AC volts. Every wire read 0 or a 0.x millivolt except the brown wire. At a fast idle it has 24 volts AC and when reved up to 3500 or so rpm it was up to 36 volts AC.
That was true for both key position 1 & 2.
I'm thinking something inside the ignition switch isn't allowing the voltage to pass along to the rectifier, etc.
I'll take the ignition switch apart when I get time. An in-law 3 hrs away has a consultation tomorrow about a possible diagnosis of cancer.

[reed]

oldsmokey
I have a switch you can test with it will save you some time!
Then if its the switch buy new i know Richard has one.
Thanks.
Reed.

[old smokey]

Did another batch of troubleshooting. No AC volts on the white wire at the rectifier.
I took the ignition switch off the frame.
The brown wire is tucked under another wire on the backside of the ignition switch, once I got it removed and started to wiggle the harness around, I realized the brown wire looked solid, but where it was soldered to the backing plate, there was only 1 strand of wire actually connected, and that gave way easily.
Hopefully that will be the last problem in the charging circuit.
I have a request in to Richard to see what he has in stock.
Thanks for all the input in finding these problems.
I might have to adjust regulator once its back together, but won't be bad to do.

[old smokey]

On Monday I got the box of parts from Richard. On Thursday I got the NOS ignition switch installed. Then I pulled the left carb to see why it was leaking gas and replace the gasket. When it came apart it was obvious why it was leaking. One float had broken off the arm - so out came the soldering iron.
With a few kicks it was running again and the battery was showing about 13.1 volts DC at a fast idle. Then with headlight on and about 3000 rpm I was reading 14.7 volts DC on the battery - so that completes the electrical charging problem.
Now though on a ride when trying some good acceleration it backfired a couple of times- which it had never done before. So I need to find what's out of adjustment.
Thanks to those who helped with troubleshooting the problems.

[reed]

Old smokey
I am glad your Bridgestone 350 is working again and thanks for the help on cleaning out on the fuel tank!
The tank is all painted now.
Talk to you soon .
Steve.