Forum > 350 Talk
incorrect wiring
mrjones:
hello ,i havnt run my bike (gtr) for two years so i got a new battery and thought id check all the electrics out before starting it.the horn didnt work so i checked the earth (from handlebar switch) which was fine and the power, which comes from the brown dynamo wire on my bike! ive checked on the wiring diagram and the brown should go to the ignition switch then to the horn as a blue.
i can use a blue for the horn but ive also found my ignition switch only has 5 wires and is missing the brown completely, my question is why would someone do this? or was there a 5 wire ign switch model? ive read the brown supplied the power to the lights wouldnt this be too much for just the horn? thanks Marcus
BRT-GTR:
Hi Marcus
Sounds like your GTR has been fitted with a 5 wire ignition switch from the 175/200 models (these are more readily available and cheaper).
As far as I can tell, the 350 has an extra circuit, which swiches in the 3rd phase of the alternator when the lights are in use for extra power. This uses the brown wire from the alternator which the switch connects to the white wire to the rectifier.
Your horn should be connected to the battery using blue wire as shown in the GTR wiring diagram. It needs battery power to work properly. There may be a spare blue socket on the switched live coming from your switch, if not splice it in.
Unfortunately the wiring diagram for the 175 in the manual on this site is not colour coded so it is difficult to compare the 175/350 circuits.
Try this - connect horn as above. Connect the brown and white wires together (near the rectifier where they meet). This effectively bypasses the ignition switch and gives a useful battery charge boost.
Alternatively, buy a 6wire GTR switch. Richard shows 1 in stock but Kerry Pagenkopf (facebook site) may have also have a new or good used one. I bought one from him recently.
Brian.
Edit. From a colour coded 175 wiring digram that Mike Dunham sent me (Thanks mike), the 175 switch shown does have a brown wire and shows 7 connections from the switch. So I,m not sure now what switch you have. Mikes wiring diagram also varies from the one shown in the on-site manual and may be a later 175 wiring update which does include brown/white wires for switching in the 3rd alternator phase. However, I believe the suggestions I made above should still work if you have previously run the bike with the fitted 5wire switch.
mrjones:
Thanks for the information Brian , yes it ran ok for a while two years ago before a non electrical fault stopped play!, im going to try the easy option of connecting the white and brown wires, that sounds like a good idea to me!
BRT-GTR:
Sounds like a plan, it relatively simple.
I disconnected the white wire from the rectifier, then separated the bullet connector on the brown wire coming up from the alternator. Then made up a short connecting wire from the alternator brown to the white terminal on the rectifier.
I taped together (but not electricaly connected) the now redundant white and brown wires running back from the ignition switch and tucked then safely out of the way.
Apologies if the above is obvious to you, it may help others.
mrjones:
hello Brian i tried what you said but for some reason it blew a fuse anyway i thought i would get a 6 wire switch to make it all standard i looked at various sites and came across one at d and k (uk) however it didnt have a key i had a good look at the picture and thought im sure mines the same number 730 when i checked it was! how lucky is that? it came in 2 days and ive tidied the wiring up on my harness and sprayed the black on the new switch so maybe the bike will be running tom nopicsorow
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