Author Topic: New 90, what's recommended.  (Read 6360 times)

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Fortytwo

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New 90, what's recommended.
« on: July 15, 2012, 09:39:41 AM »
Hello,
 I just purchased a bs 90 from a buddy,  his wife's family drove it into a shed 15 years ago and never used it since.  I am new to two cycle engines.  I want to get it running before I do too much.
  What kind of two cycle oil do people use in the I ejection system?
  Here's is my plan please tell me what I am missing and might need.
  Replace spark plug,  replace fuel and oil lines, change transmission oil.  I need a air filter, ad side knob, and both pieces of air filter rubber. For sure.

What am I missing or what advice can you give.  It has good compression, I haven't checked spark yet.  It's still in his custody so I don't even knowme trim package,  just that it's a oil injected.
Thanks
Ed

Offline old smokey

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Re: New 90, what's recommended.
« Reply #1 on: July 15, 2012, 11:09:59 AM »
Welcome to the site.
I've used Yamalube 2S for my 350, although Reed likes Klotz.
I think you've got the basics for seeing if the motor will run.
'67 350 GTR undergoing repairs with a '75 Yamaha TX500 front end

paul

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Re: New 90, what's recommended.
« Reply #2 on: July 15, 2012, 03:02:21 PM »
 Was it running when parked? After sitting  for 15 years, a little pre lube might be in order.  put a few drops of Yamalube down the spark plug hole and turn the engine over by hand without the plug in it. OLd Smokey? Is there a way to check the oil pump before he tries to start it??

Fortytwo

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Re: New 90, what's recommended.
« Reply #3 on: July 15, 2012, 05:20:51 PM »
Good stuff,
  I'll pick up the oils and plug tomorrow.  Now since I don't have the bike home yet does anyone know off hand what size lines I should get?
Ed

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Re: New 90, what's recommended.
« Reply #4 on: July 15, 2012, 08:10:50 PM »
I'm not sure how to tell if the oil pump is good before use. Maybe do a pre-mix in the gas in case it doesn't. Once you run a couple tanks of gas you would see the oil reserve go down if working. A little extra oil isn't going to do any damage.
I also use model airplane fuel for bringing an engine back to life. I have an old bottle of 15% nitro I use for testing a motor. Put a small shot of it in the carb and see if it will sputter. If it won't fire on that then there is another issue. The fuel also has castor oil in it so it provides lube too. The smell is fond memories of flying u-control .049 motors.
I recently used it to get a neighbor's 6 hp outboard running after sitting for 4 years.
On my 350 I found 3/16 fuel line worked for the oil tank. It was probably originally a metric size.
'67 350 GTR undergoing repairs with a '75 Yamaha TX500 front end

Fortytwo

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Re: New 90, what's recommended.
« Reply #5 on: July 15, 2012, 08:30:06 PM »
Ahh yes the .049s.  I still have some planes, but I think all my engines are loose.  They are left over from my dads youth so they were old to start with.  I used to have a gallon of that fuel but I think I got rid it.

Premixing is a good idea, won't hurt.  And from what I was told it was running when parked. 
Thanks I will keep you posted.  I hope to be ripping around on it by Thursday !!
Ed

Fortytwo

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Re: New 90, what's recommended.
« Reply #6 on: July 16, 2012, 01:02:04 PM »
The plug they had at the local parts store was a nkg b7hs and the manual calls for a b7h.  Is this the same.  He looked it up and the s stands for standard electrode.
Ed

Offline old smokey

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Re: New 90, what's recommended.
« Reply #7 on: July 16, 2012, 08:54:26 PM »
I found this on the internet, so it must be true.
H The next suffix letter is for thread reach
S for copper core electrode

the plug you bought should be fine. It has the same thread reach code, and you really don't care what the core is.
'67 350 GTR undergoing repairs with a '75 Yamaha TX500 front end

Fortytwo

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Re: New 90, what's recommended.
« Reply #8 on: July 16, 2012, 11:55:54 PM »
Awesome, I can use the plug.

How do. Get the starter plug unstuck out of the carb?

Tonight I got it home and tore into it.  The mice had made nests under the seat, in the frame, and in the air cleaner, down the pipe and packed the carb cavity completely.  Ii decided to take the carb off before. Try to start it after that.  I removed the cover and as much of the nests, and power washed the entire bike.  But now the starter plunger is stuck,  I'm thinking the rust from the spring got into it.

Any idea,
Ed

Bikenstein

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Re: New 90, what's recommended.
« Reply #9 on: July 17, 2012, 10:06:03 AM »
Sounds like you need to completely disassemble the carb and give it a good cleaning before proceeding. Also make sure nothin got past the carb into the crankcase.

Fortytwo

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Re: New 90, what's recommended.
« Reply #10 on: July 17, 2012, 08:56:17 PM »
Ann after citing with it for over an hour I finally got the starter plunger out.   Now I can make a new gasket and put it back together.

A quick question, can it safely start and run without the battery?  I have one ordered but the old one was crackd so I'm not able to fill it to use temporarily.
Thanks
Ed

Hap

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Re: New 90, what's recommended.
« Reply #11 on: July 18, 2012, 11:42:04 AM »
I would think you would need a good battery. I would wait. How is your gas tank? I think it would be suspect after sitting all these years. My petcock was toast, would not even turn and it broke off when trying. You should take the tank off and clean it like I described in the "How To" secttion of this forum and then treating it for rust with the Evaporust.  Even if it appears to be clean, I recommend putting an in-line fuel filter, the clear one that you can see through to make sure you are getting good clean gas to the carb. My Sport 90 sat for many years but once Reed had cleaned the carb, and I cleaned the gas tank, new battery, plug, all fluids and lines replaced, the bike stuttered back to life. I am using Amsoil Interceptor synthetic oil, the stuff I use in my snowmobile.

Fortytwo

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Re: New 90, what's recommended.
« Reply #12 on: July 18, 2012, 10:31:33 PM »
Patients ya ya, how long will that take.

Tank is soaking, and peacock is fine, I hope to have the bike fully assembled and ready when the battery arrives.  I think the rear brake is locked up and I prolly will end up soaking the chAin in oil over night also.

Thanks for the advice so far, but I realized today as I was cleaning the seat off the frame I haven't even sat on it.  Now I just want to have some fun with it.
Ed

Offline OldSwartout

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Re: New 90, what's recommended.
« Reply #13 on: July 19, 2012, 08:15:23 AM »
You can safely start the bike without a battery.  The ignition is a flywheel magneto with contact points, no battery required.  If you don't have spark, there's a 95% chance it will be a problem with the points.  The spark is pretty weak on these little bikes, don't expect more than just enough to jump a wide plug gap.

The single cylinder bikes don't need the battery to run, only to run the lights and act as a voltage regulator. Don't turn on the lights and rev the motor without a good battery, you'll burn out a bulb.
Karl Swartout
Mooresville, IN
BS175 Roadracer. BS200RS, BS175HS
BS350 GTR

 


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