Bridgestone Motorcycle Parts Discussion Board

Thanks for the information! I do have a replacement center seal. I have applied for a bonded title for my DT and the dmv reply is in the mail. If it’s approved the bike will be professionally restored (Mechanically) next year. If it’s denied I will sell it and hope to find a running, titled bike. In the meantime I have my recently acquired HS to zip around the county.

Hi Joe,

Age, mileage, extreme heat & cold are the main things that degrade any rubber/plastic lip-type seal.

I am in the middle of replacing the centre seal & bearing on my 175HS crankshaft.
I was hopeful of this being unnecessary but on close inspection of the centre seal, which you can do in-place, it had radial cracks in its sides.
My bike has only traveled 3,000 miles and has not been ridden since 1972.
The good condition of the bike and the engine confirmed the low miles and that it had been stored carefully under good conditions.
Nonetheless one main bearing was rusted solid (drive side) and the seals all need replacing including the crank centre seal.
I am replacing all main bearings and the centre bearing as well while it is apart.
I suspect your centre crank seal will be due for replacement as surely would all others that have never been replaced.
You could perform a pressure test on the motor to measure the seal leakage but I think you can safely assume it leaks.
None of this you want to hear of course but it is quite typical and well, just that thing called reality.

If your engine is not stuck and runs OK then you might consider continuing to use it. I wouldn't use it hard though (which is surely the way you would want to use it!).
If you have difficulty starting it, particularly when hot this could be an indication of crank seal problems.
Other users might be able to advise what are the tell-tale signs of a leaking centre seal.
Any running or tuning problems will probably be mystifying until you replace all the seals.

Best Regards,
Mike

Thanks !

It could only get into the crankcase, not the transmission. If you were concerned about it (possible hydraulic lock causing damage to the piston/rod), you could pull the plugs and kick it over rapidly a few times (with the ignition off). Any excess fuel in the crankcase would blow out the plug holes or into the exhaust.  You would want to let everything dry off before trying to start it.

Are the inlets & exhaust ports the same (or different) on the SR175 compared to a DT175.

I'm getting my DT cylinders relined (cast iron liners) so have the opportunity to have the port layout I want, if the SR175 ports are different (more power) then I'll go down that route. With the caveat that someone will kindly share port details: photos / dimensions / layout / diagram.

Many thanks
Dave