Author Topic: 1969 Bridgestone refurb  (Read 941 times)

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Offline matthew_clayborne

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1969 Bridgestone refurb
« on: April 09, 2022, 06:32:31 PM »
For those that have done the electronic ignition upgrade or who have fooled around with the points extensively I have a question. I am doing the electronic ignition upgrade before I start stripping the bike as I have no idea if it will even run. the back plate has been made, but I cant for the life of me get the cam off the end of the generator. I need it off to to turn it in the late but have had no luck. Is this a press fit that should require a puller or is it just froze from rust? My progress has been stalled and I have shot it with PB Blaster hoping it free's it up, any advice you can offer would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
« Last Edit: April 22, 2022, 11:15:14 PM by matthew_clayborne »
Resurrecting a 300$ 1969 Bridgestone 200 costs lots of money apparently.

Offline CL-100

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Re: Point cam removal
« Reply #1 on: April 11, 2022, 06:06:10 AM »
I'll have problems getting those off about half the time.  There is a key in there to keep it in place so that could be another potential location for corrosion that is holding the cam in place.  I've used penetrating oil and light tapping with a very small tool hammer to break corrosion, but I've also had to resort to a small puller on occasion.  PB Blaster has never worked for me...on anything. 

Offline matthew_clayborne

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Re: Point cam removal
« Reply #2 on: April 11, 2022, 09:53:23 AM »
Thanks for the reply! any particular penetrating oil you would recommend? As you stated not much luck so far with the PB blaster.
Resurrecting a 300$ 1969 Bridgestone 200 costs lots of money apparently.

Offline CL-100

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Re: Point cam removal
« Reply #3 on: April 11, 2022, 01:01:23 PM »
I've tried a lot of them and keep coming back to KROIL.

Offline matthew_clayborne

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Re: Point cam removal
« Reply #4 on: April 11, 2022, 05:06:00 PM »
I will pick some up tank you for the recommendation.
Resurrecting a 300$ 1969 Bridgestone 200 costs lots of money apparently.

Offline czmike

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Re: Point cam removal
« Reply #5 on: April 11, 2022, 06:58:54 PM »

Hi Matthew,

ER (Energy Release) Penetrating Lube is the best product I have used for releasing rusted parts (it's hard to get here in Australia).
https://pitstopusa.com/i-22647410-energy-release-multipurpose-penetrating-lubricant-12-oz.html

Either that or a 1 to 1 mixture of Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) & Acetone which also works very well.
The ER seems to get in a bit better - I guess because it is atomized as you spray it on.

Whatever you use heat the part a little, with a heat gun, before applying any goop and before attempting to pull it off.
Be patient (like an old person) - it will give eventually.

Best Regards,
Mike

Offline matthew_clayborne

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Re: Point cam removal
« Reply #6 on: April 12, 2022, 01:10:10 PM »
Thank you for all your advice, I have some Kroil on order but will look into ER. I pulled the generator this morning so I could dissemble it as it will make it easier to get a gear puller on the cam and I need to add an additional wire for the upgrade anyway. Once off I found there was a ton oil and dirt under the generator. After cleaning this area I found a hole that goes straight down into the case. I have no idea if any of that crud made it into the engine but as I don't plan on splitting the case if I don't have to I hope not. is this hole supposed to be plugged I didn't see a plug listed in the parts list.
« Last Edit: April 12, 2022, 03:38:31 PM by matthew_clayborne »
Resurrecting a 300$ 1969 Bridgestone 200 costs lots of money apparently.

Offline OldSwartout

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Re: Point cam removal
« Reply #7 on: April 13, 2022, 06:06:58 PM »
The hole is the drain for the area, it goes straight through, out the bottom of the case. You should be able to poke a small rod or stiff wire through.
Karl Swartout
Mooresville, IN
BS175 Roadracer. BS200RS, BS175HS
BS350 GTR

Offline matthew_clayborne

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Re: Point cam removal
« Reply #8 on: April 14, 2022, 07:44:01 AM »
thank you! I was a bit concerned as I thought I just introduced a bunch of crud into my engine case! I ordered the bearings and seals for the generator yesterday decided while I had it open I might as well replace what I could. I am sure many more questions will follow on my path to restoring this bike so I would like to apologize and offer my sincere gratitude ahead of time.
Resurrecting a 300$ 1969 Bridgestone 200 costs lots of money apparently.

Offline matthew_clayborne

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Re: Point cam removal
« Reply #9 on: April 14, 2022, 11:55:12 PM »
Any tips on getting the clutch side bearing off? It does not raise far enough from the housing to get a gear puller on it and I don't think whacking it with a hammer is the appropriate fix.
Resurrecting a 300$ 1969 Bridgestone 200 costs lots of money apparently.

Offline matthew_clayborne

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Re: Point cam removal
« Reply #10 on: April 17, 2022, 01:51:06 AM »
Finally got the rear bearing off, I put a puller on the outside of the case and prayed it didn't crack. I replaced the seals and the bearings an added additional wire for the electronic ignition. For those who attempt this in the future a gromet made for an Royal Enfield alternator fits in there like it came from the factory that way. I plan on picking up a M8x1.25x12 bolt tomorrow and boring it out on the late to make a timing bolt so I can set the timing. I also have ordered a dial indicator but will set it with the bolt and fine tune once the dial arrives. I am sure I will have lots of questions during this process so thanks ahead of time.
Resurrecting a 300$ 1969 Bridgestone 200 costs lots of money apparently.

Offline matthew_clayborne

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1969 Bridgestone refurb
« Reply #11 on: April 22, 2022, 11:10:49 PM »
I could not find a way to insert a dial indicator in the bike with the engine on the frame so I went to plan B. I got lazy and ordered a timing bolt the one that came was 8mm and it turns out my engine needed a 6mm. A quick trip to Lowes and 20 mins in on the lathe and I had made the correct timing bolt. NASA wont be contacting me any time soon to start crafting parts for the space shuttle but it did do the trick. Set my timing and it started after the 3rd kick. It was idling excessively high but that is a problem for future me. I think I will change the title of this thread and use it as a build log as I tear this bike down the the frame and build it back. On a spot of bad news there was a chocolate milk like substance on the timing pin when I pulled it from the engine. This leads me to believe that there is water in the case. I didn't want to split the case as I know rebuilding the crank is beyond me as I have no press, but it looks like I will be splitting it anyway if for no other reason than to remove water.
« Last Edit: April 23, 2022, 12:32:45 AM by matthew_clayborne »
Resurrecting a 300$ 1969 Bridgestone 200 costs lots of money apparently.

Offline matthew_clayborne

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Re: 1969 Bridgestone refurb
« Reply #12 on: April 28, 2022, 02:47:01 PM »
Before I took the engine off the bike I wanted to ensure that the clutch worked as this would be hard to do once the engine was off the frame. The clutch does not seem to engage at all. When the clutch lever is fully engaged I cannot turn the chain sprocket by hand (bike came without a chain) while in gear. Things I should mention are the pin that goes inside the clutch screw was missing and I machined a replacement, but did so to the specifications in the parts manual and that I have no idea when the last time the clutch was actually sitting in oil was as when I got it the cover was off. I am open to suggestions as to where to go from here.

edit: tried to adjust it per the service manual, and advice given on several different threads here, it just seems like the throw out bearing isn't working. as what ever I do when it is in gear I cannot engage the clutch.

edit 2: will try this in the morning "Take the oil fill cap off. You can see the edges of the clutch tabs thru the oil fill hole. VERY CAREFULLY nudge the tabs with a long screwdriver (or similar item) while squeezing the clutch lever. You will need to turn the crank to spin the clutch all the way around and nudge each clutch tab"
« Last Edit: April 28, 2022, 11:54:31 PM by matthew_clayborne »
Resurrecting a 300$ 1969 Bridgestone 200 costs lots of money apparently.

Offline matthew_clayborne

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Re: 1969 Bridgestone refurb
« Reply #13 on: May 12, 2022, 07:57:55 PM »
Decided to tear into the clutch as I had ordered new clutch parts. I found that what I believe to be part number 09048-107 has broken. Is there an alternate source for these?
Resurrecting a 300$ 1969 Bridgestone 200 costs lots of money apparently.

Offline matthew_clayborne

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Re: 1969 Bridgestone refurb
« Reply #14 on: July 22, 2022, 05:58:36 PM »
Trying to straighten out a fin on the head today and well it snapped off. I couldn't find a decent looking replacement in the 200's but found plenty of 175's. Can a 175 head be used on a 200?
Resurrecting a 300$ 1969 Bridgestone 200 costs lots of money apparently.

Offline moonpup

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Re: 1969 Bridgestone refurb
« Reply #15 on: July 22, 2022, 06:46:02 PM »
Since there are different part numbers between the 175 & 200 heads, I would say no they aren't interchangeable.
Btw; do you happen to  have the part number for the Royal Enfield grommet you used on the dynamo case?
Confucius say... "Better to have Bridgestone than Kidneystone"

Offline matthew_clayborne

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Re: 1969 Bridgestone refurb
« Reply #16 on: July 22, 2022, 06:56:21 PM »
Thanks for the reply, I guess I will just live with the broken fin for now. Part number no, but here is the one I ordered off of amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08CH52CVL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1 seems to be out of stock though
Resurrecting a 300$ 1969 Bridgestone 200 costs lots of money apparently.

Offline moonpup

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Re: 1969 Bridgestone refurb
« Reply #17 on: July 22, 2022, 06:59:56 PM »
Thanks, I ended up searching Ebay for it and found some. 👍
Confucius say... "Better to have Bridgestone than Kidneystone"

Offline matthew_clayborne

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Re: 1969 Bridgestone refurb
« Reply #18 on: Today at 02:51:17 PM »
Can anyone tell me the correct bolt thread to use to mount the air cleaner to the engine?
Resurrecting a 300$ 1969 Bridgestone 200 costs lots of money apparently.

Offline moonpup

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Re: 1969 Bridgestone refurb
« Reply #19 on: Today at 03:10:31 PM »
Check this post out with hardware size and thread pitch.
https://bridgestonemotorcycleparts.com/index.php?topic=4020.msg22696#msg22696
Confucius say... "Better to have Bridgestone than Kidneystone"

 


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