ZINC PLATING KITS

[reed]

WHAT DO THINK OF THE ZINC PLATING KITS.
For doing spokes and nuts and bolts or foot rest holders
on the Bridgestone 350 GTR.
I would like to know.
Thanks.
Reed.

[rocketman]

 From what I have seen,the smaller the part the better,Reed. RideRed,how are you doing with yours?  Thanks,Mark.

[reed]

Rocketman
I think i will get the kit and use it like you say for nut and bolts.
My Bridgestone is coming along as soon i get the hubs back Richard
Bike will be rolling and then i can do my frame etc.
Thanks.
Reed.

[Puchman66]

I had to jump in on this one.

I recently bought the kit from Eastwood and have to say that overall I am very happy with it.
There is a short learning curve and it is almost impossible to screw up something that can't be fixed pretty quickly.
It is a lot like doing automotive paintwork (which I do a lot) You MUST do quality prep work on the front side to get an acceptable result.
I plated a bunch of parts for my 1966 Puch including a set of spokes and these are my initial observations:

THE GOOD
- The appearance is FAR better than my previous method of cleaning up nuts/bolts, etc. which was to bead blast and clear coat.
- It is relatively cheap and easy and safe.
- You can create a jig to do several parts at a time.

THE BAD
- you have to babysit the parts.  You have to be careful not to get distracted by whatever else you are working on and leave it in the solution too long otherwise it will get crusty and you will have to start over.  USE A TIMER!!
- Even with a jig you have limits on the amount of parts you can plate at one time.
- The parts have to be VERY clean.  No rust, oil from your hands, etc.  The smoother the better especially if you plan on polishing them to a shine.
- If you want shiny parts you have to polish after plating and this became unbelievably tedious with the spokes.  My hands would start to cramp after a while.
- If you are serious about doing a lot of parts you will need at least two extra anode bars maybe four.  Not a big deal but it makes sense to order all you need at one time or the shipping costs get to you.

CONCLUSION:
This is NOT a hassle free process.  If you are on a budget you can get very good results with this but it takes time and patience and good prep.  If you want absolute perfection take your parts to a professional plating operation.
Also note- I have no idea of the durability of the plating as I have had mine for less that a year and it is always cleaned and stored indoors.
In the future I will invest in a vibratory tumbler to clean and burnish the parts so I don't have to do all the handwork. 

Please respond if this helps.

Puchman

[reed]

Puchman66
What size kit did you buy and really i only want to do the spokes and some nuts and bolts!
Puch 1966 what size engine!
Thanks.
Steve.

[Puchman66]

Reed

I used Eastwood kit "Electroplating System Tin Zinc"  Item# 10049 Z
The kit by itself was $70.00

http://www.eastwood.com/ew-electroplating-system-tin-zinc.html


I have 3 Puchs:
***1966 Sears 250 - One of the finest in the country.  There is a photo of me with it in the latest "Motorcycle Classics" on page 73.  I got Best European at the Elkhart Lake.  Matt Quirk of Motor West Restored this one.
***1966 Sears Sabre - I restored this from a basket case.  I won it in a raffle for a dollar!!  Turned out stunning.  You can see my work on it at:  http://rumbum.com/537-restoring-a-wreck?reply_to=2050
***1966 Sears 250 - This one is currently under resto for the wife. 

[reed]

Puchman66
Thanks the input on kit.and i will call you when i get your carbs!
Thanks.
Reed.

[rocketman]

 Amen to the prep work,Puchman. The first step to any fine finish!  Thanks,Mark.

[Dave K]

The last restoration I did, I sent all the parts in to get redone. I mean every part. From sprockets,washers, nuts, bolts, even the brake switch covers. Everything that was originally plated lit that got re-plated. I prepped all the parts. It is amazing, with a little effort, you many messed up Phillips head screws can be saved. The metal is still usually there, just out of place. Careful use of a punch and hammer, can put the metal back where it belongs. Any bolt or nut, got the same treatment, then dressed with a file, before finally wire wheeling them clean. I thought it was good value to send it all in. My total cost when I restored the '67 Triumph TR6R was less than $100 for everything and I mean everything. Sent them in and less than week they were back. I sent them all in together. As I found with a previous project, it didn't seem to make a difference how many parts you had, the bill was the same. I also wanted all the parts to match. It appeared also that certain days, the color was a little different than other days. You will see the same thing at a hardware store, when you look at the nuts and bolts. Good luck.

[reed]

Dave k
That may be a good way to go the thing i like about this site is your opinions!
Thanks to everybody that had there say.
Reed.

[CL-100]

I know this is an old discussion, but I am considering giving this process a try with the Eastwood kit.

I was wondering about using a more consistent electrical source though.  Some of the feedback on Amazon says that the batteries need frequent changing.  The kit uses two "D" size batteries, but I was thinking about isolating a 6 volt battery charger instead as the power supply.  I've seen other kits advertised that use a 9 volt battery.  Any thoughts about using this level of voltage?  Does the level of voltage used affect anything other than the time necessary to complete the plating?  Have they "dumbed down" the process with batteries so people don't electrocute themselves?

Thanks for any input.

[ziggy stardust]

If done properly with the correct preparation you can achieve excellent results from these kits.





Z

[OldSwartout]

I used the Eastwood kit to replate the exhaust collars on my 350. They are large and have a lot of surface area, so I had no idea how long to leave them in the plating solution.  They looked good when they came out, but turned orange the first  time the bike was out in the rain.  Apparently, they didn't get a very thick plate.    I guess the lesson here is to use the kit on smaller parts and experiment on the larger parts or send them out to a commercial shop.

I like your setup, ziggy.

[CL-100]

Thanks for the response so far.  Ziggy, your setup is outstanding.  As I read more about the process, it seems to me that the level of power as well as the time in the solution both contribute to the success of plating.  Right now, it seems to me that I should consider a DC power supply with adjustable voltage and amperage. 

Ziggy, did you keep a log on how much time your various parts were immersed in the solution?

[ziggy stardust]

You learn as you go along.
I followed the instructions and every thing was good.
Don't try to plate too quickly or you will burn your piece or pieces.
35 minutes worked for me with about 6 small items or 2 bigger ones on a freshly charged battery, you have to judge it. I even plated wheel spindles in two halves.
Cleanliness and preparation is the key.

Below I'm plating a NOS rear sprocket from RC that was water damaged, light rust and stained. After a good clean I improvised by using this bowl to accommodate the sprocket, I left this for about 50 mins to get a thicker coat of zinc.
Z

[Jon Hardcastle]

I have to say the kit that I bought was tremendous value for money, I am actually gearing up to some more this weekend!

[grundlegrabber]

Ziggy,
What brand/manufacturer is your kit from? Looks like you've had great results!

[ziggy stardust]

http://www.gaterosplating.co.uk/Zinc-Plating-kit.php

Z

[BRT-GTR]

Ziggy,
          I notice you have plated parts with both Zinc or Chrome original plating. Does this matter or does the acid strip it all off anyway. I will definitely be having a go at this - great finish.        Brian

[ziggy stardust]

No the acid dip won't take off the chrome.

As all my fasteners suffered from light rust I touched the heads up on a linisher thus removing the chrome, then polished them and finally bright zinc plated them as in my photos.

Z