restoring bs 175 hs

[Redrust]

Well lets start out with the good. just got the bike last night and I'm looking at starting with the wires and looking for a bat and headlamp assembly. I have to wait to get home to get the vin to know more about it but any help would be great. I also noticed that there is 4 spots to turn the key to. is there a chance I might have a starter? And would the vin tell me that.

[duckman86]

Mine ignitions have 4 positions as well, I don't think its has a starter. I am curious myself as to why there is 4 positions. I'll know more in a month or two when I put the engines back together.

[moonpup]

Well lets start out with the good. just got the bike last night and I'm looking at starting with the wires and looking for a bat and headlamp assembly. I have to wait to get home to get the vin to know more about it but any help would be great. I also noticed that there is 4 spots to turn the key to. is there a chance I might have a starter? And would the vin tell me that.

The Owner's manual for the 175 is available for download here on the site and will give you the info on the ignition switch you're seeking.

Here's the direct link to it......    http://bridgestonemotorcycleparts.com/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=75

[BS Mechanic]

The four positions are:
Off  Key can be remvoed
Run (Lights off)
Run (lights on)
Park (Tail light on) Key can be removed

[Redrust]

Ok that helps a ton and it makes sense. I sure I thought what might be the alternater was a starter.

[Redrust]

Has anyone removed rust from their fuel and oil tank. I don't see any posts about it or a easy way of preventing rust in the future.

[slawsonb]

Here's a post that was started by Hap that describes rust removal  from a gas tank. As a result of this post I discovered EVAPORUST ...inexpensive rust removal product...works like a charm...
...bert

http://bridgestonemotorcycleparts.com/index.php?topic=1584.0

[old smokey]

and somewhere earlier I had a thread using Milkstone to remove rust from my gas tank. It wasn't terrible rust, but it's easy to use.

[v330123]

I had my tank internally cleaned and coated at Bakerstown Radiator.

1620 Middle Road Ext  Gibsonia, PA 15044
(724) 443-8855
http://www.bakerstownradiator.com/

One of their businesses is patching and restoring auto and bike gas tanks. They put some kind of hard red coating inside. I've had it done on other tanks too, seems to work OK. Cost for my Bridgestone tank was $60.

[premiumjo]

I just cleaned mine using "The Works" toilet bowl cleaner- ($2.98 for a 2pack at Lowe's). I've read that this stuff has a violent reaction with aluminum, so I made sure my petcock was removed first (don't know if it's aluminum, but didn't want to find out the hard way). I did all the normal cleaning first, parts washer, shaking drywall screws inside it, power washing, etc. before I used the acid. Here is an after pic. I was impressed

[ziggy stardust]

That's how I clean the inside of my tanks, toilet cleaner mixed with cheap super market cola at 1:3, leave it for a week then drain, cleans well. Then I line the inside with POR15.

Z

[Redrust]

hay guys Ive been spraying penetrating oil in my cables for a couple of days now and i have been able to get them to move slightly but i can't for the life of me get past the splitters. I need to get past them so i can get the carbs out and clean. if i can't im going to be up a creak without a paddle cause nobody has replacement throttle and choke cables.

Also has anyone had issues with their fuel cap not sealing. i don't know if a new rubber seal from Richard would fix it or is there something out there that you guys have done for it.

[disc_valve]

Hi,

It looks as though you've managed to get the splitter box apart. If you have that in good condition, and you have the adjuster "elbow" at the handlebar end in good nick, then it might be just as well to cut the old cable off. With the old cable as a pattern for length, and a good splitter box and top elbow, it should be possible to get a repalacement cable re-made. There are a couple of firms over here in the UK who make new cables to pattern. You don't say whereabouts you live, but I'm sure there must be similar firms elsewhere in the world who could help out. The only possible difficulty could lie in finding someone with the correct grey (rather than black) cable if you are concerned about originality. Swap meets should, however, provide a source of assorted NOS grey cables of the right guage which can be cut down to provide suitable lengths to make a Bridgestone cable.   

Graham    

[Redrust]

The picture is just of a splitter I found dissasembled I haven't figured out the removal part yet on mine.

[slawsonb]

I believe Motion-Pro has many different colors of material and they will make custom cables. Have never done this myself, so can't speak to cost.
Look here: http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/custom/
...bert

[Redrust]

does anyone know if a fender for a 200 m11 ss will work for a 175. it seams a lot from the 200 will work on a 175 so will this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/250807387325?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648

[moonpup]

You might try going to the manuals/articles download section and check the parts manuals for both models to see if the part numbers are the same or different. It may get you your answer faster.... 

[Redrust]

ok guys ive gotten to a point where im having a lot of trouble deciding whats next.

 One is the choke and the throttle slides are stuck on both carbs. I sent a email to Reed if i could get a price to get them cleaned but i don't know if that will free it up. Is there a way to remove the cables from the carbs without the slides out or am i going to be sending the cables along for the ride?

Does anyone trust the original chain after it has been sitting and rusting for 30+ years. i got it off with a little effort and most of it will bend easily. I have it sitting in EVAPO-RUST tonight and will check on it in the morning. If you anyone has been able to save their chain when its almost solid and still trusts it please tell me what you did to make it usable again.

My next step is i believe is looking into the case and at the pistons and gears. Is it recommended that i take the whole engine off the frame to do this kind of work? If it is then im stuck with doing everything else until November when i move to a new place with a garage. I DO NOT have a garage to work on all this in at the moment. Been working out of the back end of my blazer and a little on the patio.

thanks for the continued help and if anyone is near Indianapolis, Chicago, Minneapolis or anywhere in between please contact me. I need help with getting a hold of some parts.

[grundlegrabber]

Seems to be a common problem for the choke slides to stick in the carb bodies. Choke slides have to come out befroe the cables can be disconnected. On my 175 DT, I soaked them for days, alternating back and forth between PB blaster and 2+2. Wrestled with them quite a bit and destroyed the cables in the process but they did eventually come out! Toss the chain and replace it. Not worth messing with a rusty chain. Get the carbs done, clean & adjust the points, try to fire it up and see how it runs before you take the motor apart.

[Redrust]

Well I fought some kids playing on my bike yesterday morning. The didn't break anything but I chewed them out all the same and their parents that were across the street laughing at the kids playing. A friend is storing it at his garage until I get a garage for myself in November. Till waiting on word from reed about my carbs but maybe I should check to see if they got there in one piece.

on a more on topic note. Has anyone ever built a trailer that would work with the 175? Thinking of making a one wheel trailer but don't know where to start.