Author Topic: New Member from Fort Collins, Colorado  (Read 1314 times)

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Offline srpackrat49

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Re: New Member from Fort Collins, Colorado
« Reply #20 on: June 24, 2018, 01:13:53 PM »
Me to... I,m 70 now and have the BS that was not mine back in 1967 when the 350 came out... The dealer would not sell it to me... Kid... i  don,t want to be responaple for your death..... SHIT......  i had the 175DT at that time.... Then every thing went away in 1968 with the draft......   now i have 10 bikes and lookinf for more....  Im not marryed to i don,t have any one to tell me NO....

Offline Steve Swan

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Re: New Member from Fort Collins, Colorado
« Reply #21 on: June 24, 2018, 08:47:47 PM »
Me to... I,m 70 now and have the BS that was not mine back in 1967 when the 350 came out... The dealer would not sell it to me... Kid... i  don,t want to be responaple for your death..... SHIT......  i had the 175DT at that time.... Then every thing went away in 1968 with the draft......   now i have 10 bikes and lookinf for more....  Im not marryed to i don,t have any one to tell me NO....

thanks for your share.  Boy.  are you ever right about "Then every thing went away in 1968 with the draft......"

Jack was a classmate of mine, he was a wild half-Santee Sioux, after one too many alcohol/driving convictions, our local Judge Burton gave Jack a choice, either face some prison time (previous offenses were only jail offenses which were not working) or go to Viet Nam.  here is how the rest of that story went - http://www.vvmf.org/Wall-of-Faces/22109/JOHN-C-HAYES


Offline Steve Swan

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Re: New Member from Fort Collins, Colorado
« Reply #22 on: July 12, 2018, 09:41:07 PM »
After a brief inspection of the GTR on the lift, it seems reasonably evident that the 2183-9000 "crankcase cover gasket" is no longer up to the task of keeping oil where i want it to be kept.... 8)  Are there any special tools required to remove the clutch in order to remove the 2161-9000 "right crankcase cover" so i can replace the gasket?  While i am in there, should i plan to replace the 09090-9000 "47 oil seal" and the 09090-101 "12 oil seal"?  Is there anything else i need to consider before beginning the work?  Thanks in advance for your help!

Offline RayK

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Re: New Member from Fort Collins, Colorado
« Reply #23 on: July 13, 2018, 05:53:31 AM »
Great stories thanks Steve, Brian and Karl etc. The GTRs are in high demand here in Australia, especially the Aus. delivered ones. They are one of the iconic bikes from the 1960s.
RayK (68yrs)
BS 175DT, BS 50 Sport x 2, BS 90 Mountain x 3, BS 90 Deluxe, BS 90 Sport x2, Chibi, BS 60 Sport, BS 90 Trail, BS100 Sport.

Offline BRT-GTR

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Re: New Member from Fort Collins, Colorado
« Reply #24 on: July 13, 2018, 10:50:51 AM »
           While you have the right side of the engine stripped, would recommend replacing the oil seal in the center of the right disc valve cover, 09090-118, 32X52x8. This is a double sided seal with 2 garter springs and sealing lips which stops gearbox oil being sucked into the crank chamber. Can save a lot of work later, if right side pipe smokes more than the left ?
       
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Offline OldSwartout

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Re: New Member from Fort Collins, Colorado
« Reply #25 on: July 13, 2018, 05:39:31 PM »
Are there any special tools required to remove the clutch in order to remove the 2161-9000 "right crankcase cover" so i can replace the gasket? 
Grab a copy of the 350 service manual from this site, it shows how to remove the clutch and the tools needed.  All the tools have been sold out for decades although some show up on Ebay occasionally. The parts catalog shows a good drawing of what they look like, better than the service manual.

The clutch stopper is to hold the clutch hub while loosening the center nut.  You can put the transmission in 5th or 6th, hold the rear brake to stop the clutch hub. An impact gun can be used instead, there is enough parts inertia to allow you to loosen the nut. Do NOT try to stop it using the raised bosses for the springs, they will break off (voice of experience).

The next step is removing the ring nut holding the basket. It takes a 40mm ring nut socket. Some people have found similar tools from current automotive tool suppliers, though. Search this site for pertinent posts. You can always use the backyard mechanics trick of a hammer and flat punch to loosen the nut.  During clutch  basket removal, do not try to stop the basket by sticking a pry bar through the basket ears, they will bend. Unfortunately, I don't know a good makeshift idea to stop the basket, I have the tool.  Maybe someone else on here has an idea to pass along.

The next thing is to pull the clutch basket.  Some are loose enough to remove by hand, some not. If you have the right size three arm puller, that will work. If not, you can just screw in (3) 6mm bolts through the holes intended for the puller, they bottom on the housing behind the basket and will mar it, but will remove the basket. Screw them in evenly to keep even force on the basket.

Richard Clark has new gaskets made from modern materials and I think he has all the seals, also.
« Last Edit: July 13, 2018, 05:44:53 PM by OldSwartout »
Karl Swartout
Mooresville, IN
BS175 Roadracer
BS350 GTR

Offline Steve Swan

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Re: New Member from Fort Collins, Colorado
« Reply #26 on: July 13, 2018, 11:37:17 PM »
Hi Karl,
Thank you for sharing your experience on RH side of engine disassembly.  I do have a factory shop manual, of which I shall certainly refer to before and during any disassembly that I undertake.  What I was looking for was exactly the precautions and methods/tools that you gave me which can be used for disassembly as I do not have factory tool, however I do have 45 years worth of tools at my disposal in my shop at my disposal, so I should be able to come up with something that will work without having to resort to hammer and punch to get that 40 mm ring nut off.
Thanks again, and when I decide to I am ready to undertake the project, I shall post on my thread accordingly.  I am going to answer Brian’s post next, so will add a bit more of details as to my approach; at this point I want to go in as thoughtfully as I can, as I have no inclination to start “ripping things apart.”

Offline Steve Swan

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Re: New Member from Fort Collins, Colorado
« Reply #27 on: July 14, 2018, 12:13:44 AM »
           While you have the right side of the engine stripped, would recommend replacing the oil seal in the center of the right disc valve cover, 09090-118, 32X52x8. This is a double sided seal with 2 garter springs and sealing lips which stops gearbox oil being sucked into the crank chamber. Can save a lot of work later, if right side pipe smokes more than the left ?
       

Hi Brian,
Thank you for mentioning seal 09090-118; I would not have thought to consider that big fellow as needing replacement, but your suggestion/observation makes perfect sense and exactly what I was looking for when I made my post.

When I took delivery of the bike, it had been “in transit” damn near 2 months.  When I took delivery of the bike, I was impressed it started the first kick; “Simply amazing,’ I smiled to myself.  However, I did notice the engine was smoking considerably out the RH exhaust and barely visible out the LH, but the smoking cleared away quickly.  Since the initial start, I am now running Amsoil Interceptor synthetic 2-cycle injector oil which is smokeless.

In any event, tonight I deliberately I went for a ride tonight before posting so I could observe for any smoking.  What I am seeing out of the RH exhaust is barely visible smoking, and no smoking out the LH exhaust, so I am assuming while the seal is relatively intact, the smoking suggests the seal is not fully up to its intended function...  That being said, is there any other consideration to take as to an alternative cause for barely visible smoking out the LH exhaust?

I am not in a hurry to “rip things apart” as I thoroughly enjoy the bike as it is, although the old guy capably leaves more oil on my garage floor than I can live with over the long term.  What I need to do next is clean the underside of the engine, run it a short bit and then get it up on my lift and thoroughly inspect for sources of leaks.  What I do know, there is unmistakably leaking of injector oil and leaking transmission oil.  In the case of the injector oil leakage, clearly I need to inspect hoses, the banjo joints and the oil pump its self.  I also note there is what appears to be an oil line banjo behind the LH cylinder in front of the aluminum air cleaner case, so I assume this is the line that feed into the LH cylinder…?  Appears I have injector oil leaking at that banjo site.  Looking at the parts book, the banjo washers are aluminum, so if the banjo nuts are tight, then the washers should be replaced…?

As far as the transmission oil leak goes, the sight glass is intact, no oil leaking from there.  So, my way of thinking is the culprit is either loose screws or a failed crankcase cover gasket.

Any thoughts you or Karl have of other leak sources or anything else to consider, I will certainly appreciate your advice!

Every time I ride the GTR I am so impressed with the motorcycle.  It has such a stable feel being a full size motorcycle, and handling is so responsive, “flickable.”  Having ridden my share of Yamaha twins, imho, the GTR is hands above any of the Yamaha’s.  As well as the bike runs, I am reluctant to do anything other than maintain it until I have the time and a spare lift to dedicate to getting rid of the oil leaks.  It is a dripper, so I am sure at my first free moment, after I do my inspection, I will start dismantle process.
Again, any other thought you fellow have, I will appreciate it.  Thank you for participating in my fun!

Offline OldSwartout

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Re: New Member from Fort Collins, Colorado
« Reply #28 on: July 14, 2018, 08:25:57 AM »
I'm in agreement with you, ride it, not work on it unless the problems bother too much.  However, you might take a closer look at the injector oil leak at the LH side.  If it is the washer is leaking, that shouldn't be  a problem, but if it is the rubber hose, it could get significantly worse with no warning.
Karl Swartout
Mooresville, IN
BS175 Roadracer
BS350 GTR

Offline BRT-GTR

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Re: New Member from Fort Collins, Colorado
« Reply #29 on: July 14, 2018, 11:43:32 AM »
              The flat aluminium sealing (that's a misnomer ;D) washers on the oil pump and check valve banjos were fine when new and annealed but are now notorious for leaking. Replace them with new or better still 'Dowty' type washers that have a built in rubber seal.
        Glad you are enjoying riding your GTR, nice to read an independent review. We're all biased on this site, welcome to the club.
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Offline Steve Swan

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Re: New Member from Fort Collins, Colorado
« Reply #30 on: July 14, 2018, 11:45:48 AM »
              The flat aluminium sealing (that's a misnomer ;D) washers on the oil pump and check valve banjos were fine when new and annealed but are now notorious for leaking. Replace them with new or better still 'Dowty' type washers that have a built in rubber seal.
        Glad you are enjoying riding your GTR, nice to read an independent review. We're all biased on this site, welcome to the club.

Brian, Thank you for your reply.  Who is a good source where i can purchase Dowty washers?

Offline nysz1b

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Re: New Member from Fort Collins, Colorado
« Reply #31 on: July 23, 2018, 06:07:33 PM »
Nice GTR and R.E. Interceptor! I had a 1961 Super Meteor that I fully restored, then foolishly sold it a few years later. Would'nt mind finding another Meteor, or Incerteptor, but prices for them have gone through the roof!

Currently restoring a '67 GTR.

Offline Steve Swan

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Re: New Member from Fort Collins, Colorado
« Reply #32 on: September 24, 2018, 10:52:04 PM »
I failed to take pics this last Saturday when i rode 77 miles round trip on the GTR to a AHRMA sanctioned vintage motocross; i didn't have my camera on me both times when i remembered i wanted to take pictures, so my apologies in advance!  On the other hand, what a great bike the GTR is!  i think it is pretty amazing how excellent the engine runs considering it's never been apart (as far as i know) since it left the factory.
« Last Edit: September 24, 2018, 10:53:40 PM by Steve Swan »

 


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