Author Topic: Bench Testing 350 Oil Pump  (Read 1912 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline BRT-GTR

  • Brian
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Master Registered Bridgestone Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 775
Re: Bench Testing 350 Oil Pump
« Reply #20 on: June 14, 2018, 04:09:31 PM »
           Are you sure the distributor valve is correctly timed to the main pump rotor as shown in Fig  94 in manual. (I'm sure you've checked it many times).   Ignore fig 93, no-one has yet worked out what that refers to !!
        See aslo service letter BSG-0059, Page 32 here -------  http://bridgestonemotorcycleparts.com/PDF/BSServiceLetters.pdf
      Air being pushed back toward the pump suggests the checkvalve is not working correctly. Don't take the checkvalve out unless you absolutely have to or have already taken it out.  The 8mm threaded section is very weak and often breaks, that will cost you. Test it by sucking on the oil line, there should be no backflow whatsoever from the crankcase. Blowing forward, you should feel a slight restance, then the ball will be pushed off its seat and forward flow is allowed. 
      If not functioning as above, rinse the valve in kerosene until it clears. Don't put an airline on it, that will destroy the spring inside.                                                        Brian.

  Would also add, is the flow of oil from the tank OK. Check the brass mesh filter on the tank banjo bolt. Can become blocked over time.
« Last Edit: June 15, 2018, 05:42:59 AM by BRT-GTR »
Unspoiled by progress.

Offline davis

  • Regular Member.
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • **
  • Posts: 136
  • Desire for a better world.
Re: Bench Testing 350 Oil Pump
« Reply #21 on: June 16, 2018, 10:09:30 AM »
My pump seems to be working fine on a running motor. Just came across the spec. Seems only 1 cc/min. is the flow rate at my 1,500 rpm test rate is all that I could expect (see engine manual pg. 76).

Offline Bridgestoneboy

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Bridgestone Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 33
Re: Bench Testing 350 Oil Pump
« Reply #22 on: June 16, 2018, 10:51:21 AM »
The confusion continues....
I decided that I wasn't sure how much I trusted the one check valve, so I decided to switch it out with a second one I had, since you can only buy them in a pair from richard. After switching the valvue, the pump seemed to work great. I let the bike sit for 20minutes or so running, no air leak. I then took the bike out for a ride and came back no air leak. Came out and started the bike up again this morning, ran for about ten minutes, still no air leak. I walk back after mixing up another gallon of gas, there is an air bubble. The pump is not consistently sucking air, but on just rare occasion it sucks air. This inconsistency has me very confused. And yesterday I did reset the timing on the pump and double check everything....what on Earth is going on?   :o I feel if it was something to do with motor timing or vaccume leak it would be consistent and the bike would not run as good as it does.

Offline Bridgestoneboy

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Bridgestone Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 33
Re: Bench Testing 350 Oil Pump
« Reply #23 on: June 16, 2018, 01:39:31 PM »
To add, the oil line from the tank is perfect and the line running to the left cylinder is perfect. I just took the bike for a test ride and it drew oil to both sides perfect. Yet as soon as I slowed down about to park it, it started drawing air ONLY ON THE RIGHT SIDE once again. It also seems that when I manually bleed the lines by lifting the lever on the pump, that seems to add a very tiny bubble or two.

Offline BRT-GTR

  • Brian
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Master Registered Bridgestone Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 775
Re: Bench Testing 350 Oil Pump
« Reply #24 on: June 16, 2018, 05:23:14 PM »
           As air is introduced when you lift the control lever, check the pump back plate is still fully tightened (Black item that carries adjuster screw and has left hand thread). This can loosen when locknut is tightened or throttle is used.

      As for air in right side line, logic says it can only enter the system between the distributor valve and the engine check valve otherwise it would affect the left side. My money is still on the banjo seals on the pump, does air appear at the banjo outlet. Don't trust the flat alloy washers to seal, better solution is 'dowty washers' that have a built in rubber seal. Banjo bolts can bottom out on their thread before washers are fully compressed. Hair line crack in the banjo ?, these are known to suffer degradation of the alloy under damp conditions.
      Beyond the above, I am stumped and suggest you try another pump although that could introduce further issues. Keep going, you are nearly there.
« Last Edit: June 16, 2018, 05:35:20 PM by BRT-GTR »
Unspoiled by progress.

 


Gallery


Views:14
Comments (0)
By: harleywaynecycles

Views:16
Comments (0)
By: harleywaynecycles

Views:11
Comments (0)
By: harleywaynecycles

Views:6
Comments (0)
By: harleywaynecycles

Classifieds

[ebay] ‘67 175 DT - no reserve
Price: $0.00
Date: 11/09/2018 10:20 am
Time Left: 86d 15h 2m
Assorted Bridgestone Parts

Price: $0.00
Date: 10/16/2018 11:09 am
Time Left: 62d 14h 50m
BS 350 Carburetors (2nd. Set)(SOLD)

Price: $0.00
Date: 10/04/2018 04:52 pm
Time Left: 50d 20h 33m
1966 DT 175

Price: $1900.00
Date: 09/16/2018 07:14 am
Time Left: 32d 10h 55m

Recent Downloads added

11/01/1967 Factory Service Letter, RH shift/LH Brake conversion

Rating: (None)
Filesize: 92.56KB
Date: August 03, 2018, 02:49:08 AM
11/01/1967 Factory Service Letter, RH shift/LH Brake conversion

Rating: (None)
Filesize: 142.24KB
Date: August 03, 2018, 02:44:36 AM
350 GTR Wiring Diagram
Rating: *****
Filesize: 8604.23KB
Date: July 29, 2018, 12:29:25 PM
Bridgestone Motorcycles

Rating: (None)
Filesize: 3561.91KB
Date: June 05, 2018, 04:42:13 PM

Powered by EzPortal