Author Topic: Racer Resurrection  (Read 67647 times)

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Offline OldSwartout

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Re: Racer Resurrection
« Reply #200 on: August 14, 2018, 07:31:24 PM »
It only needs to clear the driven gear on the end of the alternator.  Just clip it off with a cutoff wheel in a die grinder and get it relatively flush. There is a reasonable amount of clearance behind the gear and you can easily check it visually. It's not necessary to go to all the trouble to set up a mill cutter.
Karl Swartout
Mooresville, IN
BS175 Roadracer
BS350 GTR

Offline al_pritchard

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Re: Racer Resurrection
« Reply #201 on: September 13, 2018, 04:13:07 PM »
Figured a quick update was in order. Not a lot of progress on the engine, but all the parts are in. And that pesky shaft/nub is no longer in the way.

Most of last weekend was spent at NJMP watching the super bikes play in the rain. Interestingly 3 of the last 4 MotoAmerica races in NJ were in the wet. The USCRA guys were also in attendance, and like last year It was fun watching them go round.

I did manage to find a little time between rain drops on Friday to put the final coat of clear on. Ended up going with white. I think it looks rather nice with the big Bridgestone markings.

The under lying color is your standard Rustoleum. With a top coat of USC 2K high gloss clear. Very impressed with how this went on. It’s a 2 part clear, you “pop” a button on the bottom of the can shake for 2 min, and spray. And it’s full proof - I hope.



Al Pritchard
Highlands, NJ

BS175 Racer

Offline rwgibbon

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Re: Racer Resurrection
« Reply #202 on: September 14, 2018, 07:13:17 AM »
Very nice!

Offline al_pritchard

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Re: Racer Resurrection
« Reply #203 on: September 27, 2018, 02:01:27 PM »
Thought I was making such good progress over the last two weeks. The “nub” has been removed, everything is scrubbed clean and oiled up. All new seals, and even new head studs. Assembly was moving smoothly, then…

 :'(

I striped out the cylinder head stud hole in the block. I’m going to try to open it up, and install a helicoil without stripping the engine down again. Otherwise it all comes apart, and gets resembled again.






Al Pritchard
Highlands, NJ

BS175 Racer

Offline OldSwartout

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Re: Racer Resurrection
« Reply #204 on: September 27, 2018, 07:08:30 PM »
Damn!  Yes, helicoils work for that, and it really shouldn't be hard to keep the chips out of the bottom end. I've done one or two over the years.
Karl Swartout
Mooresville, IN
BS175 Roadracer
BS350 GTR

Offline al_pritchard

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Re: Racer Resurrection
« Reply #205 on: October 11, 2018, 01:25:27 PM »
Whats that saying, use the right tool for the job?

After 7 un-successful attempts with the original “official” Helicoil kit. I ordered an e-z coil kit. First attempt, success! The e-z tool keeps the coil comprised as it threads into the hole. The helicoil tool does not have a way to keep compression on the coil. So it expands, and attempts to cross thread the hole.

So product recommendation. If you want to use a coil based thread prepare method. Get eh E-Z Coil kit.

To do it all over again, I would probably get a Time-Sert kit. I like the idea of having the top hat that time-sert provides. In the case of the coil, you need to install it slightly below the top of the hole. Not a bit deal in most cases, but the head stud is slightly narrower than the hole needed to install the coil. So the stud is going to be slightly shorter by a thread or two. Shouldn’t be an issue.

Now I can get back to building this engine.

Massacred Helicoils


Get this tool!


It makes this easy


And fixed
Al Pritchard
Highlands, NJ

BS175 Racer

Offline al_pritchard

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Re: Racer Resurrection
« Reply #206 on: October 15, 2018, 01:16:36 PM »
Managed to steal a couple hours over the weekend - double duty watching WSBK, and building an engine.

One of the nice surprises that came with the spares package is a packet of new SR clutch plates - Thanks Richard! It’s good to, because two of the plates that were in the bike were broken.

Assembly is going smooth, with everything seeming to fit where it should. Fingers crossed…






Al Pritchard
Highlands, NJ

BS175 Racer

Offline al_pritchard

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Re: Racer Resurrection
« Reply #207 on: November 06, 2018, 06:54:56 PM »
I guess third times the charm.  ;D

It seems that the oil seal on the transmission output shaft needs to be put in place, before the case haves are joined. Lesson learned. So, now that we have everything back to gather again, I have a question.

I'm using the aluminum shims from Cometic, between the case and the cylinders. Should I also be putting a little Yamabond on both sides of the base shim? Or will the aluminum of the shim be soft enough?

Oil Seal
Al Pritchard
Highlands, NJ

BS175 Racer

Offline OldSwartout

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Re: Racer Resurrection
« Reply #208 on: November 07, 2018, 08:17:44 AM »
IMO, go with Yamabond or something similar, won't hurt and may prevent an air leak that could cost you a piston and cylinder. If a head gasket leaks, you'll see it and it won't destroy your engine.  A cylinder base leak might.
Karl Swartout
Mooresville, IN
BS175 Roadracer
BS350 GTR

Offline bsracer

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Re: Racer Resurrection
« Reply #209 on: November 10, 2018, 03:07:43 PM »

Offline OldSwartout

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Re: Racer Resurrection
« Reply #210 on: November 10, 2018, 07:34:05 PM »
This is what I
use on the heads and on the aluminum base shims.

paul

https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex-copper-spray-a-gasket-hi-temp-sealant/
Agreed - that's what I used on head gaskets. I didn't think about it for the aluminum spacers, but makes sense.
Karl Swartout
Mooresville, IN
BS175 Roadracer
BS350 GTR

Offline al_pritchard

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Re: Racer Resurrection
« Reply #211 on: November 13, 2018, 12:10:11 PM »
I used a copper spray on the head gasket when I restored the Jeep. It worked - and still is working - very well. Didn't even think to use it for the base shim. Might transition to it when I pull the heads off next time. The Yamabond is a little messy, and not very good at transferring heat.

I did manage to get the engine all buttoned up this weekend. Fingers crossed I did it right. Also set the static timing to 24° BTDC (2.356mm or 0.092in BTDC) The photo below shows the magnet rotated to about TDC. The Dyna fired about when the blue line gets to the raised edge of the pickup. I may go in, sand off the blue lines, and reposition them to allow me to mark the timing on the pickup. For now it's marked on the side of the generator case, and the engine case - blue marks.

Also started practicing my safety wiring skills.







Al Pritchard
Highlands, NJ

BS175 Racer

Offline craig641

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Re: Racer Resurrection
« Reply #212 on: November 14, 2018, 10:43:18 AM »
Double check your safety wiring on your exhaust studs.  The one on the right is wired so it's loosening the nut, not tightening it.

Offline al_pritchard

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Re: Racer Resurrection
« Reply #213 on: November 24, 2018, 05:07:53 PM »
Yea. Di that wrong. :(

The learning curve is steep... I think I got it right this time. Having to re-do the safety wire also made me aware of the lack of spring hangers. Not sure how the PO had the springs mounted before. But by the length of them, I suspect they were around the castings in the cylinder.

Lets see if these work better.


If I did all the math correctly, I should be at 24° BTDC at 0.092in. I couldn't find a measurement for the 175 crank anyway, but I thought it was about 100mm.

Karl, Paul, do you have a measurement for the crank length?


Al Pritchard
Highlands, NJ

BS175 Racer

Offline bsracer

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Re: Racer Resurrection
« Reply #214 on: November 25, 2018, 12:15:54 PM »
The rod length is 100mm. There are formulas to calculate the deg BTDC vs the value in mm. I run 2.0mm BTDC, not sure what that equates to deg wise (Karl's the engineer). With dial indicator in plug hole find TDC. Rotate backwards 2.0mm on dial and set timing. My ignition is setup with a taper adapter. When I set the indicator to 2.0mm BTDC I just line up the mark on the rotor to the one on the stator and I'm done. When the ignition housing is set in the "middle" you can advance or retard the timing by rotating the whole assembly. I tried those figures in the Bridgestone tuning manual years ago but have always been on the conservative side on the timing. I have run from 2.4mm down to 1.8mm BTDC. I haven't changed it from 2.0mm for some time. With all the other issues, I just try to keep some variables constant.

paul

p.s. I ran 32:1 vs 28:1 at Barber this year because I was sharing fuel with a friend. Not much of a difference in oil (.5oz per gallon). The bike was already running rich and I did not re-jet. Left side bottom end bearing seized on first lap of Fri practice. Replaced the crank and missed two races. In the fourth race on Sunday the RH big end bearing seized up. Some bearing fragments did make it to the head on the first seizure. Cleaned it up and back together. I mostly kept the bike under 12K and it was going ok, but not in the real power band. No other real damage was apparent after both seizures. In fact the burn pattern on the new heads was very good. Both seizures happened at pretty much full throttle on straights. One factor was that these were stock cranks. I've had the same thing happen once before (32:1 and stock crank). The crank I built with Yamaha KT100 rods was way out of true upon inspection prior to Barber. The first crank was in my spare engine. It had been run once after a piston failure at Sonoma. The second crank was an original SR crank that was repaired with a double stepped pin that Karl had made. I broke a similar one and never ran this because I thought it might break as well. It also had an untested labyrinth seal.

At least I know the labyrinth seal works! Back to the drawing board on the crank modifications. I'm going to maybe try stepped pins on one and another crack at 20mm holes bored out. I think they will be ok if executed properly this time.

Offline al_pritchard

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Re: Racer Resurrection
« Reply #215 on: November 26, 2018, 09:59:24 AM »
That puts us pretty close Paul.

2.0mm = 22°
2.365 = 24° - From the manual

Good point about leaning a little conservative with the timing. Might follow your lead here.

By the way a handy little calculation tool at: www.torqsoft.net/piston-position.html. I subscribed to the site for a while, when I wanted to try to understand what the modifications from the manual would do. But some of the tools are free.

I'm getting more and more worried about the cranks. Very interested in seeing how the two of you move forward. Especially because I'm down to my last one.
Al Pritchard
Highlands, NJ

BS175 Racer

Offline bsracer

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Re: Racer Resurrection
« Reply #216 on: November 26, 2018, 12:05:02 PM »
You will probably be ok for a while. I think something is wrong with the setup on my bike. Mostly the pipe and maybe carburation. I'm confident the newer style crank will work, it just wasn't executed properly. I found a guy in LA/Orange County that has 45 years doing jig boring/grinding. I think he can do the holes in the crank with better precision. I really need to take the approach of figuring out what's going on in the motor for next year.


paul

Offline al_pritchard

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Re: Racer Resurrection
« Reply #217 on: December 04, 2018, 04:50:32 PM »

Progress continues. I didn't notice this before, but their is a bit of wear on the side the the gear. And it's only on the drive gear. You can't see it that well in the photo, but it looks like the engine is cocked slightly left - forward to the left, rear to the right.

I don't feel any binding, but you can hear the "tick, tick, tick" from the chain. Anyone care to hypothesize on the problem? Twisted swing arm, bent frame?




Al Pritchard
Highlands, NJ

BS175 Racer

Offline srpackrat49

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Re: Racer Resurrection
« Reply #218 on: December 04, 2018, 09:59:59 PM »
That is normal were,,,,,, just put the dam thing on the track and tell us how runs,,, in a year or 2 !!!!!

Offline BRT-GTR

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Re: Racer Resurrection
« Reply #219 on: December 05, 2018, 09:11:36 AM »
          Had similar issue with the GTO when I got it :-     Chain 'chunnering' on the front sprocket when wheel spun, sprocket worn on one side only and a bonus of a clang every time the split link passed/hit the forward chainguard bolt  :D :D.
          Turned out to be a combination of the engine skewed to the left (worn engine mount bushes) and bad rear wheel alignment.     

 First of all, line up the rear wheel with the front using a plank or string (care at this stage ensures the bike steers straight, hands off) then check the sprocket alignment. Books say use a straight edge but not possible on our machines, too many items in the way, so sight it or try a piece of thin cord. Laser tools are available.

   I wouldn't use that sprocket, looks severely worn, teeth slightly hooked ?  Does your chain clear the rear shock, looks very close.
« Last Edit: December 06, 2018, 06:10:59 AM by BRT-GTR »
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