Bridgestone Motorcycle Parts Discussion Board
Bridgestone Tech Talk => 350 Talk => Topic started by: Sye on September 06, 2015, 08:21:41 AM
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Well, after much work and a little money I have the first 350 GTR registered and on the road. Today was the first day I've ridden it and here's what I found.
Started 2nd kick on the choke with no throttle but then wouldn't tick over without it. The right hand cylinder wasn't getting as hot as the left, so I fidled with the tickover screws until it did and off we go. Err, no!
Engage 1st gear, let out the clutch slightly, give it a few revs and stall. This happened quite a few times until finally I got going. The clutch is all off or all on, there doesn't seem to be a progressive take-up, just on or off. 3500rpm, feather the clutch as much as I can and we're off.
I did a 15 mile circuit circling the house so I wan't too far away should anything go wrong. On inspecting the bike I found the following:
Vibrates like a ladies leisure item at 5000rpm.
The brakes are rubbish, but they were back in 1968.
Slight leak from the speedo drive where it enters the top of the gearbox.
Slight leak of what I suspect is two-stroke oil from the right hand side drain.
Slight leak from the right hand fork leg, even though I replaced the seals and rebuilt it.
It may seem all negaive, but it's not, I had a really good ride. Considering the age of the bike, the handling and ride are superb if a little firm. Sticking my arm out to turn is something I haven't done for longer than I can remember and takes a bit of getting used to.
Next is to sort the list of stuff above. Any suggestions very welcome.
Oh, I have to get some mirrors. Anyone know of a suitable aftermarket set?
A happy bunny. :-)
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Congrats Sye! I hope to be among the riding before too long. The issues you listed seem pretty minor and as you say some sorting will do the trick. ;D
I loved your comment about the buzz at 5K r's or so...ROTFLMAO...
...bert
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I don't know of anyone having rebuilt a GTR and everything works properly first time, fine tuning and fault finding now.
Z
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It is great to hear about another Bridgestone
brought back to life and being back on the road.
Thank you for sharing.
Randy
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Sye, I know the feeling. When I first got my 67 back on the road I had electrical issues. Finally got them sorted out and then a broken throttle cable has the bike down for awhile. That's the price we pay for these "antiques". BUT they sure are fun once all the issues are fixed and you get some good seat time. Good luck and it's great to hear that another "Stone" is back on the road. Enjoy, Harry
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Sye,
I know what you mean about the clutch, I had a similar problem with my GTO after the engine rebuild, but after a bit of adjustment it's much improved, although I have to say, still slightly 'grabby' compared to my other bikes, but certainly ok.
To be honest, I don't find the brakes "rubbish" at all, mind you, I don't ride modern bikes so that may be down to expectations. Twin leading shoe brakes are more tricky to adjust but again, I'm sure you should be able to find some improvements to what you're currently experiencing...worth having another go at those.
Regarding the slight leak from the RHS drain...it's worth getting the cover off and inspecting the oil pump and pipes, as that sounds like the likely source of the problem. I've had oil pump issues myself recently and have now become very familiar with this area!
As for mirrors, personally, I'd stick with the originals. To me, they look right and are readily available...also, because the mirror itself can be moved up or down the stem, you can adjust them to a position without seeing your arms and elbows, so rear vision is pretty good. I used my bike last Sunday and generally, on the sort of speeds you'd do on A roads, they're fine. Not so great above 55-60mph but still quite usable.
Good luck Sye, I'm sure with a bit more tinkering time you'll have those items sorted and enjoy the bike to its full :)
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Right ho, I'm going to fine tune the fuelling and timing this weekend to try and get rid of the vibrations.
Is there a better way than using the timing pin and hoping for the best? Many years ago, I seem to remember slackening the generator and turning it whilst the engine was running until I got the smoothest running, but maybe that won't work?
Is there a more accurate way of balancing the carbs other than lining up the marks? There appears to be no way of attaching vacuum gauges or measuring the intake in any other way.
I will then move on to the clutch, brakes and leak another time. Thanks for the useful pointers Steve.
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Hi sye,
The front brake, although it is a bit tricky to setup, it works quite well. It took me a few attempts to get it right, but I'm glad a kept going.
What are your pads like? You might need to set the brake plate up in a lathe and check that the pads open evenly and are round to the brake diameter with a dial gauge.
Ryan.
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Hi Sye,
Just been away for a week, your post had dropped off the bottom of the board. Great to hear you have No1 running. which one is it? Can just imagine you riding those Wirral roads with a big grin on your face :D ;D :D, look forward to the day.
The lads seem to have covered most of the issues. Cable drive leak could be the 'o' ring (or lack of) on the top of drive fitting in the case. The drive can be pulled out of the case, bit fiddly putting it back though. Make a mental note of how deep it sits so you can 'find' the locating hole before tightening the retaining screw.
Clutch may just need to bed in and will benefit from gentle treatment for the first 500m or so. Early magazine road tests reported snatchy clutches but later ones said it was OK. Make sure adjustment is correct and see how it goes. I now have a set of GTR tools, except the clutch puller if you need them.
Surprised you found the ride 'firm', the suspension is usually described as plush but standards will have changed since I last rode two wheels. .
Enjoy being Stoned, Brian.
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Sye,
On the subject of the "firm" riode, I wonder what position you have the rear shocks in. I tried mine in the upright position when I first had the bike, and they were a bit hard. As I like my kidneys where they are, I moved the shocks to the forward mount position and the ride became 1960s standard - soft and comfortable but wallowy when pushed hard into a bumpy corner.
Graham
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Sye,
On the subject of the "firm" riode, I wonder what position you have the rear shocks in. I tried mine in the upright position when I first had the bike, and they were a bit hard. As I like my kidneys where they are, I moved the shocks to the forward mount position and the ride became 1960s standard - soft and comfortable but wallowy when pushed hard into a bumpy corner.
Graham
Graham, they are set on the forward mounted position but I believe they are NOS? They are certainly firm as is the front end. I don't mind it really as it doesn't wallow at all, although I haven't pushed it yet and am unlikely to do so. I have more modern bikes for the hooligan stuff that actually have brakes.
Must look into the brakes. The shoes are new and may need a little time to bed in but I can at least double check the adjustment.
Just thought of something else that is annoying! The right foot rest is being pushed up by the rear brake pedal, is this normal? When I stop at the lights or a junction and put my right foot down the pedal has moved up and takes me by surprise when I move off.
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Hi sye,
My brake pedal also pushed up my right foot peg. But I believe my Gtr my have suffered a low or stationary drop on that side. I just massaged the brake stop pin on the frame with the appropriate tool and this stopped the contact between the brake pedal and foot rest.
As far as the brakes go, another thought, once you have done a few kilometers with some decent applications of the front brake, remove the front wheel and check out the contact points of the pads to ensure they have full contact.
Ryan
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Just wanted to add that my rear brake pedal is also the same....pushes the foot peg upward some when foot is off the peg. Glad to know i am not alone on this one. :) bsforever