Author Topic: Racer Resurrection  (Read 43292 times)

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Offline al_pritchard

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Re: Racer Resurrection
« Reply #140 on: January 01, 2018, 12:11:12 PM »
Thanks Karl. It was the difficult shifting that had me worried - as it's very smooth with the cases split. I'll seal it up again and double check.

On another note - it's not all bad that I had this pause moment. In re-checking everything I find that I am in possession of a pre November 1965 shift drum (pre serial no 16W02913). This gives me a shift pattern of 1N234N5. The post November shift drums give a more favorable - for racing - N12345.

Does anyone know if it's a direct swap between the old and "new" drums? And does anyone have one for sale?
Al Pritchard
Highlands, NJ

BS175 Racer

Offline bsracer

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Re: Racer Resurrection
« Reply #141 on: January 02, 2018, 03:07:35 AM »
Yamaha bond or something similar is the only thing to seal between the case halves. Don't use RTV.  Your crank set up looks like there is no locating dowel in the cases. Is there a circlip retainer against the seal as well? Shift fork B (#12) in the parts diagram is different from the ones in a SR175. Unless you are going to lock out the rotary shift somehow, that little spring and plunger is omitted and the shift fork for a racer just takes the same pin and roller as the other shift forks. When you assemble the bottom end you have to install the clutch bearing retainer before you tighten down on the cases (the trans can move over and be out of position if the cases are tightened first). You also have to make sure the crank is not binding on the cases. Put it in the top half and spin it then put it in the bottom half and spin it. Then put it in the cases and with just a few case bolts just snug them up a bit and keep checking how the crank turns over.

I have never put a motor together that doesn't have the locating dowel and circlip for the crank. Maybe the crank is a bit out of position. It doesn't take much. When a crank is not pressed back to all the way the webs can rub on the cases.

In looking back at your post, the early shift drums that have the different pattern also have a few different gears on the cluster. The drums can not just be swapped. The early drum should have what looks like two neutral indents. The later ones only one. I probably have a good stock setup. I also have an under cut set that would be preferable and some refurbished shift forks (including the SR style #12 fork). I'll take a look tomorrow.

paul

Offline al_pritchard

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Re: Racer Resurrection
« Reply #142 on: January 02, 2018, 07:47:25 PM »


Yep, no locator pin. But there is a circlip retainer that holds against the seal. I guess they made a number of updates towards the end of '65.

Thanks for the tip with the clutch bearing retainer may answer why I was feeling a little resistance.

I have the rotary shift fixed in place with a simple bracket. I must confess this was put on by the previous owner, so I cant take credit for the welds. But I do wonder if this transmission is what lead to the spun crank? Ful chat down the straight at 10k plus RPMs, and shifting from 4th to neutral may have allowed him to over rev slightly. ¯\_(?)_/¯

Rotary Shift Lockout


Shift Drum with Spring & Plunger


I would be verry interested in ether of those transmission options. Don't think the current configuration is going to cut it.
Al Pritchard
Highlands, NJ

BS175 Racer

Offline al_pritchard

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Re: Racer Resurrection
« Reply #143 on: January 08, 2018, 08:48:52 AM »
With the final assembly of the engin on a short pause while I source an different transmission. I thought Id move on to the controls. I get a little rubbing of the clutch cable under the tachometer. My hope was to run the clutch through the air-dam. But that causes some slight movement of the clutch lever then fully turned right. I'm going to re-make all the cable controls, as the new levers have a longer distance between cable end and the casing. I'm hoping that better matching the cable and casing length may allow me to run through the air-dam.





Still have some tweaking to do to the foot lever. Would like to get the angles to match between the shift lever, and the foot level. And boy do I hate threading stanless steel.


Al Pritchard
Highlands, NJ

BS175 Racer

Offline old smokey

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Re: Racer Resurrection
« Reply #144 on: January 08, 2018, 06:05:51 PM »
I feel like I'm going to an art exhibit looking at the photos!  8)
'67 350 GTR undergoing repairs with a '75 Yamaha TX500 front end

Offline al_pritchard

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Re: Racer Resurrection
« Reply #145 on: January 16, 2018, 07:30:28 PM »
Weekend Update!

This weekend was all about cables. Throttle and clutch - brake cable should happen next weekend.

Throttle cables were rather simple. Bought two universal throttle kits from Venhill, and assembly was pretty easy. Although I couldn't find an end fitting exactly like ours. I did fing a "Trumpet Nipple" that could be made to work.

A 1" copper end makes a simple crucible to melt the solder.


Nice little birds nest


Quick dunk in the solder, and a little filing


I took the throttle cables out a little far to help avoid any interference when turning.


Would love some thoughts on how to run the clutch cable. Again going to run long to prevent any interference when turning. But the cable always seems to end up under the throttle. Perhaps a loos zip-tie to the fork leg?



And Paul. I still owe you a phone call. Got a little distracted this weekend.
Al Pritchard
Highlands, NJ

BS175 Racer

Offline bsracer

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Re: Racer Resurrection
« Reply #146 on: January 17, 2018, 11:28:45 AM »
Hi Al.

I need to make some new throttle cables for my current set up (22mm)  and for some 24mm carbs I want to try. Here's some pics of how I run the cables. I usually have a zip tie loose on the clutch, throttle and front brake. I use a throttle off a YZ85 or RM85 to a splitter under the tank. I put some aircraft cable/wire hangers on the frame with big enough loops to let the cables move if they need to.


paul
« Last Edit: January 17, 2018, 11:33:24 AM by bsracer »

 


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