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When is a carburetor beyond rebuilding?

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MZ250:
Good afternoon, folks! I am working on an old carb, and am looking for advice regarding whether it's worth the trouble to rebuild. It has a bit of white, crusty build-up in the bowl and float chamber, having sat for a few decades. I got a kit with all gaskets, float valve, needle valve, adjustment screws, springs and clips. Advice I have found elsewhere on the web says that a carb with internal oxidation is beyond repair and should be entirely renewed. Is this accurate, or is there hope yet? The last carb I cleaned and reused (of similar age and condition) worked only for one day, then, in spite of repeated vigorous cleanings, NEVER ran the bike again, and I had to replace it. I did not use a full rebuild kit.  I have limited experience in such matters, and I am hoping that some of the more seasoned of you out there may be willing to offer their two pence. Much obliged!

coxy:
You may need ultra sonic cleaning. Steve Reed may be able to help you

slawsonb:
The ultrasonic cleaning advice is best, but a good set of small brushes and lots elbow grease will go a long way. My vote is that all is not lost.
...bert

MZ250:
Excellent, thanks for your prompt replies! I almost forgot, I do have an ultrasonic cleaner, albeit a cheap one. I will give that a go, as I have already applied quite a bit of brushed on elbow grease, if you will...

Old BS Guy:
There is a household cleaning product called CLR that is a lime and mineral descaler for showers and fixtures. I recently tried it in a diluted form on a carb. The jets were so plugged that not even my cleaning tool would touch them. I soaked the complete disassembled unit and parts in CLR for a day, and then rinsed with water, and blew it out. Came out perfectly clean. I chased all the jets with my cleaning tool,and they were clean. Just for good measure, I chased the passages with some aerosol carb cleaner, and blew them again. Carb was fine. On older carbs, pay attention in particular to the slide for excessive wear, and the needle and it's corresponding nozzle for wear, or being eccentric. Remember when you go back together to leave enough cable slack for proper slide adjustment when setting the idle, then readjust the cable to specified slack. Also, on plunger style chokes, don't expose the rubber sealing pad to caustic cleaners, as it will swell them out of dimension. Check that pad to make sure it will seal off the orifice when the choke is shut.

....KP

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