Author Topic: Racer Resurrection  (Read 40772 times)

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Offline bsracer

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Re: Racer Resurrection
« Reply #60 on: November 10, 2015, 11:08:58 AM »
Looks good so far Al. I think I did basically the same thing to mine as yours (stem). I need to recheck the steering head tube of the frame as I think the upper bearing race has become loose (after 12 years of racing!).

paul

Offline al_pritchard

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Re: Racer Resurrection
« Reply #61 on: November 30, 2015, 03:22:10 PM »
Quick update for the Thanksgiving weekend. Mucked around with the front hub and axle this weekend.

The Bridgestone front axle measures just under 15mm, and the new to me forks use an axle that is just under 12mm. So I’m thinking I’ll need to machine up a new axle shaft, as the Bridgestone one is no long enough. This will also require me to drill out the axle hole in the lower left fork to accept the larger diameter axle.

Paul, I think you mentioned that you needed to machine your hubs to accept the axle on your forks. Employing that you are / were running a significantly thicker axle than the Bridgestone. I wonder if you and I have different forks - mine are suppose to be Ceriani 32mm.

Bridgestone on the bottom


The new axle will need to be as thick as the Bridgestone, and as long as the Ceriani.

Anyone have any thoughts about materials? I think I have some stainless steel lying around that may be long enough.
Al Pritchard
Highlands, NJ

BS175 Racer

Offline bsracer

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Re: Racer Resurrection
« Reply #62 on: December 03, 2015, 10:24:14 AM »
I think back when we did mine I had access to a good amount of other motorcycle parts. There is probably some axle from another bike that is close to fitting. At one point we extended the head portion of the BS axle by welding a piece of tubing then turning it to fit the ceriani fork. The Bridgestone 175 brake plate was machined thinner to fit the ceriani forks and a new spacer made to center the wheel. There wasn't enough material and the brake plate broke on me at Barber back in 06 or 07. I run a Honda CB450 Black Bomber front wheel now. It is a bit bigger diameter and the brake plate has a thicker boss. Enough stopping power to lift the back wheel in certain conditions (racing in a parking lot!).

paul

Offline al_pritchard

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Re: Racer Resurrection
« Reply #63 on: December 30, 2015, 09:18:04 AM »

As we approach the new year, a year I won't be traveling. It's time to refocus on the bike in 2016.

Next order of business is a new set of rims. I pulled the old dry rotted tires off the other week and found a fare amount of rust. So aluminum is in my future. Any one have opinions on rim brand selections?

Excel rims are nice, but very pricy. Not that it's not worth it, just wondering if there are more reasonable rims that people are trusting on a race bike?

I keep seeing posts that some Borrani rims are now manufactured in Italy, and not just drilled there. But others seem to be skeptical. Not that they are that much cheaper.

Any thought or recommendations?
Al Pritchard
Highlands, NJ

BS175 Racer

Offline bsracer

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Re: Racer Resurrection
« Reply #64 on: December 31, 2015, 03:14:28 AM »
Hey Al,

are these the ones you're referring to? http://www.ebay.com/itm/WM1-1-60-X-18-36-hole-Akront-Italian-style-flanged-alloy-vintage-motorcycle-rim-/161871699509?hash=item25b04e1e35:g:vLQAAOSwo0JWMBzs

i thought these were ok. I'll check with a friend to see if these were the same ones he purchased. He's had no problems.

paul

Offline al_pritchard

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Re: Racer Resurrection
« Reply #65 on: January 04, 2016, 01:19:01 PM »

They are exactly the ones I was thinking of. Glad they are ok, I don't want to skimp on rims but I'd love to be able to put the money difference to other areas.

Al Pritchard
Highlands, NJ

BS175 Racer

Offline bsracer

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Re: Racer Resurrection
« Reply #66 on: January 05, 2016, 02:23:13 AM »
I'll call my friend tomorrow and see if these are the same ones.

paul

Offline bsracer

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Re: Racer Resurrection
« Reply #67 on: January 06, 2016, 11:27:16 AM »
Hey Al,

I talked to my friend about the rims . He got them direct from Italy because he ordered multiple sets. He said he paid 55 Euro each but this was a few years ago. The company he got them from is Tronconi & Novelli which is Motocicli Veolci http://www.motocicliveloci.it. I think these are the same rims as the ones on eBay. You would have to make sure with the seller.

paul

Offline slawsonb

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Re: Racer Resurrection
« Reply #68 on: March 17, 2016, 05:00:05 PM »
Sorry for injecting a question into your thread Al, but I too am contemplating aluminum rims. Does any one know what the correct size specification (WM?) is for 350 19" rims? The stock steel DID's outside measurement is ~2.75in and the bead to bead measures ~1.830in. Any help appreciated.
Thanks...bert
« Last Edit: March 17, 2016, 07:00:15 PM by slawsonb »

Offline Gerrit

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Re: Racer Resurrection
« Reply #69 on: March 17, 2016, 08:08:44 PM »
Bert, that sounds like a WM2 rim which is 1.85".

Offline slawsonb

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Re: Racer Resurrection
« Reply #70 on: March 17, 2016, 08:53:39 PM »
Gracias, Gerrit. Now back to our regularly scheduled programming.  ;D
...bert

Offline al_pritchard

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Re: Racer Resurrection
« Reply #71 on: March 29, 2016, 03:30:18 PM »
I’v been very neglectful of the bike, and updating everyone as of late. So lets see if I can change that, and get the bike moving along faster.

A little work on the frame. The front fairing bracket needed to be repositioned. Steering stops needed to be added - the old frame based stop interfered with the lower fork yoke. And side mounts needed to be added for the fairing.

I found some nylon threaded pipe to hose adapters at the hardware store that are a perfect fit. They slide on tight over the bolts. I’ll drill them later and safety wire them to the fairing mount. Once I fully work out the steering range I want. I seem to recall FIM having a maximum but I don’t expect we need to follow that for AHRMA or USCRA. Feel free to correct me if I’m wrong. Or give me guidance on what you have your steering range is.

Steering Stop and Fairing Mount






Side Fairing Mount


NHK Stabilizer




That shinny red stand is good for an extra 5hp


As late fall set in in the north east it was time to close down the shop. A particularly sad moment each year, made even sadder as 2015 will be the last full year for me in that shop. The farm it’s on is getting ready to be sold - development marches on. So the bike needed to find a new home, at least a nee temporary one until I can find a new workshop. So home it came. And where else would be more appropriate than the living room. (I love my wife)

Dry and Warm


Period Bike, Period Chair



Now back to where we left off, I was looking for rims. Well I found them. Ended up ordering a WM1 for the front and a WM2 for the rear. The quality looks pretty good, with slight narrowing around the weld area. Overall the seem to be true and I feel comfortable running them at this point. I also ordered stainless spokes and nipples from Buchanan’s. 10a Stainless spokes and 10ga .250 x .790 nipples. Just under $300 for the spokes and nipples and $177 for the rims.

Don’t Forget the Anti Seize








Building the wheel was relatively start forward. Found lots of tutorials and videos. None stand out as being best. So take a look at a handful if you plan on going down this rout. It’s not to hard. Just go slow and don’t force anything.

Building the Wheel




Now it’s time to true the wheel. Picked up a wheel balancing stand from harbor freight, and feel like I need to immediately return it. It’s hard to true a wheel when the stand is out of true.

It’s Not Just the Shaft Click to see video


The Bearings are Out of Round as Well Click to see video


So I’m looking for some new bearings to fix this. I think if I can find a bearing that is big enough. I can overlap the bearings and due away with the outer casings - currently the stand uses a skateboard bearing inside a casing. Then I’ll cut a new 13mm shaft that is true.

Also opened up the brake side fork leg to accommodate the 15mm Bridgestone shaft. The Ceriani forks came off a Penton that used a 12mm axle shaft. Opening the hole was rather simple. I used a 12mm shaft to help align the fork leg. Then tightened the holding bolt a little and drilled.

Drilling is Fun Click to see video


Now it's on to truing and making a new front axle. Stay tuned...
Al Pritchard
Highlands, NJ

BS175 Racer

Offline slawsonb

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Re: Racer Resurrection
« Reply #72 on: March 29, 2016, 04:34:42 PM »
The bike looks great on the hardwood, Al! You're a lucky man. My wife let me do my first 350 engine rebuild in the living room. Would probably not allow it now., but that's what the shop is for.  ;D ::) ;D
...bert

Offline rwgibbon

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Re: Racer Resurrection
« Reply #73 on: March 29, 2016, 05:29:31 PM »
You have a great deal more talent then I do.

Great looking project.

Randy

Offline OldSwartout

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Re: Racer Resurrection
« Reply #74 on: March 29, 2016, 05:38:32 PM »
It's looking really good, Al.

I used Buchanan spokes on my racer after my 40 year old originals started breaking.  Much stronger and better looking.
Karl Swartout
Mooresville, IN
BS175 Roadracer
BS350 GTR

Offline bsracer

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Re: Racer Resurrection
« Reply #75 on: March 30, 2016, 10:42:52 AM »
Looking good Al. I went with some Buchanan SS spokes after missing two races at Miller from a broken spoke.

paul

Offline al_pritchard

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Re: Racer Resurrection
« Reply #76 on: March 30, 2016, 01:04:53 PM »
I'm doing my best to prevent just that Paul. I also ordered an additional 3 inside and 3 outside spokes and nipples so I don't end up in that same position. If nothing else, I'll have spares for anyone else who seeds them.


Al
Al Pritchard
Highlands, NJ

BS175 Racer

Offline al_pritchard

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Re: Racer Resurrection
« Reply #77 on: July 07, 2016, 02:06:31 PM »
Lots of time keeps passing by, but it seems like little progress is getting made. Such is life. I’m officially over a year behind now, with my original goal to take the bike to NJMP. AHRMA is at NJMP this weekend, perfect milestone reminder. Not to worry, I’m still focusing on getting there. Just a little later.

So, on to the progress. I’v spent an inordinate amount of time trying to true the rims. I’v yet to succeed. I’v gotten the front rim to 0.03/0.04 - not counting the weld seam that is about -0.08+/-. The problem is the rim is not round - not round as in the height of the rim from shoulder to bottom is not equal all the way around. So it kind of hops up and down. The rear is not much better.

So if any one has a recommendation for an aluminum WM1 and WM2 18” 36 hole.

I’ll be at NJMP for the 2016 AHRMA races this weekend poking around the swap meet. Lets see if I get lucky.

Along with the rims, I’v been working on mounting the fairing. It seems a little short to be honest - cover the pipes and the clip ons need to be under the triple clamps. :-\

I think I’v found a happy balance that gets the bubble up high enough. I’ll need to build a new belly pan, but that should be easy comparatively.


Aluminum Stock


Starting to look like a part


So far so good






I’m working on two options for the brace at the top. The bar across the triple clamp would be the cleanest. But then I lift the faring high enough to use the cross bar, the bottom of the leading bubble is higher than the bottom of the triple clamp. So I may need to lower the fairing and use a bent rod from the forward mount point that bends back along the clear bubble.



Al Pritchard
Highlands, NJ

BS175 Racer

Offline OldSwartout

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Re: Racer Resurrection
« Reply #78 on: July 08, 2016, 05:24:31 PM »
Nice fairing mounting.   8)

As for truing the rims, .030/.040 may be close enough, but try setting your indicator on the the tire bead mounting surface from the outside, that's what will determine the tire's relative position and what you will need to be as true as possible.
Karl Swartout
Mooresville, IN
BS175 Roadracer
BS350 GTR

Offline al_pritchard

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Re: Racer Resurrection
« Reply #79 on: July 11, 2016, 10:38:31 AM »
Took a trip down to NJMP this weekend for the AHRMA races. Saturday was not the best weather, but the racing was spectacular. The lemans start for the CB160/CB175 class was a blast to watch. And I learned a very important lessen - pay attention to the flag. Otherwise you will need to thread your way across the track with oncoming traffic.

The 200GP race was a blast to watch as well. And the CB’s bumped up to fill out the grid.

This inspired me to get by posterior back into the workshop on Sunday. I’v been struggling with getting the upper fairing mount behind the bubble to work. If I use a straight bar, the fairing needs to be up to high, and has a tendency to distort the shape.

A way around this would be to use an armature welded to the forward mount. A forward mount armature means I need to use a two peace mount - one of steel to wield the armature and an aluminum tube to reach out to the fairing. If I can use a bar across the yoke, it creates a much simpler system. And removing the fairing is easter.

You can see the two part forward mount in this picture. The steel mount has a bar welded to it to help index it to the frame, keeping it from twisting. And a heavy spring to keep it puled in tight to the mount. The aluminum bar/tube mounts to that with a pin.



I mocked up a bent bar and some aluminum tubes to see if I could make it work. The bent bar drops the mount point a little, and removed the distortion I was getting in the upper fairing.







With it mocked up, I should be able to finish it next weekend. Just need to drill and tap for a set screw into the - what do you call that aluminum bit in the center of the steering tube that the bar runs through?
Al Pritchard
Highlands, NJ

BS175 Racer

 


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