Bridgestone Motorcycle Parts Discussion Board
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: AlanJohn on July 26, 2017, 02:27:14 AM
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I've just bought my 2nd gto does any body have any tips on how best to unsieze the engine hopefully it will just be the top end l'm led to believe that's the case l will post some pictures soon
Thanks very much
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Try pouring some penitrene into the spark plug holes and let it sit for a week. This has worked for me, if it if has seized due to a failure, you won't be so lucky and will most likely need to get brutal...
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Thank you would it be better to take of the heads
What do you mean by brutal
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He means to your pocket book..... :o
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Ok no surprise there then l've been there with my last one
Hopefully l can unsieze it l'll try my best starting tomorrow
Kind regards
Alan John
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350 pistons are notorious for seizing solid in the barrels, be careful, the barrels don't have the benefit of an iron liner so are easily damaged.
This problem has been discussed many times on the forum with various techniques put forward for shifting them. Can't find a link at the moment, anyone help ?
Brian.
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Brutal? Well, if it comes to it, start with a soft hammer... ;)
Hardy
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Started today this bike as been stored properly l believe
All oil has been drained
All cables are not siezed heads are off right piston is at the top left one is down so won't hold any oil everything looks good both plugs have a nice spark if l can unsieze the motor l'am sure it will go the main stand is missing so l ordered one which will be with me early next week
I hope then l can rock it in gear and free it up if not any ideas are greatly appreciated
Thanks
Alan
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Just let it soak for a while with penetrant on the rings. Even if one cylinder is at the bottom, some of the penetrant will get to the rings. The problem with these beauties seems to be aluminum oxide growth behind the rings that causes the tight lock. Dissimilar metals at the interface are to blame, so patient soaking is the first step. Rocking may free it up after a good soak, but in my experience these babies are locked (really locked). I have had to resort to pounding and even that doesn't work in some cases. If you get to pounding and you damage the cylinders there are folks who can repair them if not too severely damaged. Pray for a lesser degree of stuckness.
...bert
Here's a good thread on this topic:
http://bridgestonemotorcycleparts.com/index.php?topic=1165.0
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I've been working on the bike again jacked it up on the bench to remove the rear wheel as the sprocket is much larger than my other one is this normal??
Also it has a gear lever spline on the right as well as the left so l presume you can choose which side you want is this normal??
Are all rear sprockets interchangeable as l do have another the same as my first one and the large one seems to be well fixed
Thank you
Alan
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Been back to it again and have now changed the rear sprocket to the smaller one
Time to put on a chain and try to free it up
I'll post some photos soon
Thanks
alan
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Try removing the cylinder head bolts, head and rocking the barrel. If the crank is free you should be able to turn and raise the barrel. Might held to get some pressure from underneath.
Or if it won't hold oil, try plugging the exhaust port or rotating motor and filling through the exhaust port?
Unless it's seized mechanically, it will come free. Have faith!
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Hope you get lucky with freeing the pistons, use some heat as well. I use a heat gun.
These engines were built with the gear change shaft extending to both sides of the cases. You should also find a pivot tube, stop and cable bracket for a brake lever to be fitted to the left side of the frame. Swapping the foot controls over required a special kit which BS produced, l/h brake lever, cranked r/h gear lever, cranked kickstart etc.
Not many owners chose to swap over and the kits may have been produced in limited numbers. Kit parts do come up for sale occasionally but are few and far between. A handful of our members may have one.
Brian.
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Been back at it both barrels are now off arm wrestling and brute force was the only way
Both l'am quite good at fortunately
They are going to langcourts in Weston super mare today to be replated and pistons and rings are on there way bottom end is fine although l have spare complete crank if it was required
Thank you
Alan
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Hi Alan,
Great result, I'm jealous. Removed a similar pair of stuck barrels to find the crank was rusted solid :'( :'(.
Was there much evidence of corrosion on the pistons/barrels ?
Brian.
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No not really it was really stuck and took about an hour of force
The first one l put a pick axe handle under the exhaust studs and ratchet strapped it to my bench then block of wood and hit the piston while constantly cranking the strap tight slowly but surely it came off similar story with no two but two straps to bike frame with the pick axe handle creating immense pressure so it had to come off
Everything else is good even all the electrics work
There's some photos of it in the gallery although l'am not very good with computers and still trying to get it. Right
But l never give up!!
Kind regards
Alan