Author Topic: Choke Lever question  (Read 3507 times)

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jjwithers

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Choke Lever question
« on: September 15, 2016, 12:03:50 AM »
I ordered the proper bolt that goes through the clutch lever and connects the choke assembly to the handlebar perch. 

However, when I tighten the nut to the point that the choke lever doesn't spin when adjusting the lever, the lever itself is VERY stiff.  I am missing something here that allows me to tighten the bolt/nut and still have a smooth adjustment on the choke lever. 

The parts diagram is hard to make out regarding out it 'should' be.

Can somebody post photos or help here?
All these parts were broken when I got the bike so I had to source replacements...

Offline BRT-GTR

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Re: Choke Lever question
« Reply #1 on: September 15, 2016, 11:06:59 AM »
    If I've correctly understood your question, it sounds like the little cast peg on the choke lever assembly may have broken off. This fits into a hole on the bottom of the clutch perch and stops the choke assembly turning when the lever is moved . Either that or the dished washer in the choke lever housing is missing.
   Tighten the long screw into the choke housing first to secure the clutch lever, then use one nut to obtain the correct friction feel on the choke lever and lock it with the second nut.
   Sorry don't have a photo.
                        Brian.
« Last Edit: September 15, 2016, 11:17:51 AM by BRT-GTR »
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jjwithers

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Re: Choke Lever question
« Reply #2 on: September 17, 2016, 02:14:23 AM »
humm... yes, perhaps that cast peg is missing.
There could be something missing in the choke lever housing too.  I have no idea.
I can double nut it.  The other thought is a different bolt and tighten a nut around the clutch perch, then install the choke lever housing, then secure that housing with a nut. 

Offline BRT-GTR

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Re: Choke Lever question
« Reply #3 on: September 17, 2016, 03:42:55 PM »
     These might help.  The only 'extra' item in the lever assembly is the curved spring steel washer to provide friction.

     Drill out where the peg was, tap 4mm and insert a short screw, cut off to leave 4mm projecting. That will provide a stop.  Find a thin springy washer, put a curve on it and reassemble the choke lever. Problem solved or you might just want to get a new one. .

   Brian.
« Last Edit: September 17, 2016, 03:56:25 PM by BRT-GTR »
Unspoiled by progress.
I'm so glad I grew up in the 60s & 70s. I did so much stupid stuff and there's no record of it.............Anywhere !!

Offline OldSwartout

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Re: Choke Lever question
« Reply #4 on: September 17, 2016, 06:14:24 PM »
I've seen wave washers in Ace Hardware in the nut and bolt assortments.  Your local store may or may not have them, though.
Karl Swartout
Mooresville, IN
BS175 Roadracer. BS200RS, BS350 GTR

jjwithers

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Re: Choke Lever question
« Reply #5 on: September 20, 2016, 04:19:05 PM »
I think my choke assembly does not have that peg on it.  I was able to solve it today by machining a small spacer and the right washer combination that allowed the spacer to secure the choke assembly to the perch, and the washer provides just enough tension on the lever so it isn't too loose or too tight to move. 
Here is a photo of it and the spacer fit through the lever's opening and provided pressure on the choke lever housing (which pokes through the lever). 

jjwithers

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Re: Choke Lever question
« Reply #6 on: September 20, 2016, 04:20:41 PM »
Better version of that photo

Offline BRT-GTR

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Re: Choke Lever question
« Reply #7 on: September 22, 2016, 05:39:53 AM »
   JJ
      Problem solved with a bit of lateral thinking  :D  Where there's a will, there's a way,   Good job.
  Brian
« Last Edit: September 22, 2016, 05:43:44 AM by BRT-GTR »
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Offline OldSwartout

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Re: Choke Lever question
« Reply #8 on: September 23, 2016, 04:17:14 PM »
Josh, resurrecting an old topic; did you get the electronic ignition worked out?
Karl Swartout
Mooresville, IN
BS175 Roadracer. BS200RS, BS350 GTR

jjwithers

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Re: Choke Lever question
« Reply #9 on: September 24, 2016, 05:59:33 PM »

Josh, resurrecting an old topic; did you get the electronic ignition worked out?

Not yet Karl,

Every time I try to sort it out, i get a bit daunted.  The bike is wired and the only things left are the electronic ign, put the chain on, mounting the exhaust, the grips and a few small nick-knacks.
This is where I am at...
How to get that small rotor onto the generator with that little key inside it? Do i put the key in the rotor, and try to push it on?  If so, it will need some tapping...
After that, I will try to slide on the magnet part of the electronic Ign onto the rotor so I can get it where I want it.  The engine is on the left piston-full extension at the moment.  I think the magnet perfectly aligned with the sensor at this point is a good place to start with timing. 
I had the 180degree apart points like the article on this site for the 350 electronic ignition.


Offline OldSwartout

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Re: Choke Lever question
« Reply #10 on: September 24, 2016, 06:34:23 PM »
The small rotor should go on with just light tapping.  Just be careful the key doesn't move inward and rotate the back end up to block the rotor from sliding on.

You are right about starting with the magnet aligned with the sensor is a good place too start, although I'd start with the crankshaft set at the timing notch aligned with the crankcase hole, which would be where you want it to fire at 22 deg. BTC.
Karl Swartout
Mooresville, IN
BS175 Roadracer. BS200RS, BS350 GTR

 


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