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350 Talk / Re: kick starter not fully returning
« Last post by CL-100 on Today at 06:03:04 PM »
In rereading your post I believe your method is correct if your stopper and idler gear are not mounted. My unit came out of the box fully assembled and the stopper was already mounted to the case.  I was pretty far along with reassembly before I figured out the tension wasn’t right.
350 Talk / Re: kick starter not fully returning
« Last post by CL-100 on Today at 05:55:26 PM »
I’m not sure if I understand correctly but my spring and my cases are all good. The pictures are meant to show the position of the kicker ratchet without tension. Once the cases are together, the tension can be adjusted by pushing the shaft in and turning the shaft counter clockwise in order to get the ratchet stop on the shaft past the stopper.  I find it’s easiest done by using the kick starter to turn the shaft.
350 Talk / Re: kick starter not fully returning
« Last post by coxy on Today at 05:00:25 PM »
is the end of your spring in good condition ? or is the recess in the case damaged
this is tensioned without the stopper in or upper case on I have not done it this way before but I will give it a crack today usually I put the casings back together then with multigrips or the kick lever tension the spring put the stopper plate on then all the gears etc
350 Talk / Re: kick starter not fully returning
« Last post by CL-100 on Today at 03:41:29 PM »
I'm probably the last person on this site to figure this out but I thought I'd post some pictures to possibly help someone else in the future.  I'm in the middle of "dry fitting" my 350 engine together in order to find out what I've done wrong before I assemble it with the sealer.  I've figured out how and where all the dots on the gears align and had my rotary valves opening and closing at the correct times but I noticed my kick start lever return tension was weak.  I've gone through the 350 service manual as well as another thread on this subject from March 2015.  The service manual didn't make sense to me until after I figured the problem out. 

I've read elsewhere that the manual doesn't cover tensioning the kick return spring before assembling the case halves.  It appears to me that there isn't any way to do this without assembling the cases.  As soon as you start to put some tension on that spring, the whole kick unit pops up and out on the engine right side.  I suppose there's a way to do this by removing the kick stopper but mine was already firmly installed and the idler gear/tach gear was already on too. I believe it was Ridered who figured out that the spring could be tensioned without splitting the cases but I've found that only works if you've installed the tension spring correctly.  As Brian already said, the kicker spring could be installed 180 degrees off.  Anyway, there are pictures below to help explain the process.

This first picture shows that the kicker shaft has a hole drilled completely through it to anchor the return spring.  What I learned is that if you put the anchor part of the spring in the wrong end of this hole, the ratchet stopper won't line up in the correct place in order to tension the spring later.  When I first assembled mine (incorrectly) I noticed that there was a lot of slop between the time the stopper engaged and the spring began to tension.

The second picture shows where the kick shaft ratchet stopper sits when the spring is anchored in the wrong side of the hole.

The third picture shows where the kick shaft ratchet stopper sits when the spring is anchored in the correct side of the hole.

With the correct configuration I assembled my cases together and was able to set the spring tension by attaching the kick lever and pushing the kicker shaft in while rotating the lever rearward.  This clears the adjacent gear on the output shaft and lets the kick shaft ratchet mechanism move into the correct position on the kick stopper.  It's a long swing on the starter lever and you will have to pull the shaft back out once its aligned correctly and maybe rotate it a little to get the idler gear to mesh with the adjacent gear on the output shaft.  When done, you'll have about half a rotation of tension on the kick shaft.  This is basically the process Ziggy re posted on another thread.  If you're still assembling your engine and haven't installed the stopper or the idler gears yet, this will be a lot easier. 

The bad news is that if your kick return spring is anchored in the wrong hole and your engine is assembled, you'll have to split the cases to get it right. 

Members: Introduce yourself / Re: New Member
« Last post by BRT-GTR on Yesterday at 06:01:17 AM »
           Full marks for hanging on to the 175 from your youth. Many of us here wish we had done that  ;D.  Does she still run. Good luck with the restoration.
Members: Introduce yourself / Re: New member, Wheatland CA. 100 TMX
« Last post by fahrkle on February 15, 2018, 06:28:30 PM »
What are the numbers on your bike - I am always curious if someone has a bike with numbers close to mine. I also have a 69 TMX 100. Welcome!!  22N002953
Members: Introduce yourself / Re: New Member
« Last post by fahrkle on February 15, 2018, 06:18:48 PM »
Hi and Welcome - I believe the tanks are the same. What color are yo looking for? I might be able to help you with a tank. Where about are you located?
175 & 200 Talk / Re: Racer Resurrection
« Last post by al_pritchard on February 14, 2018, 02:59:04 PM »
Waves of good and not so good progress. The transmission situation is now solved - I still owe you a call Paul but  had to take a cheeper option for a little while.

I managed to find a RS200 transmission with both shafts, drum, and dogs. I was esthetic, everything I needed at a very good price. When the transmission arrived everything looked good. So I started to tare it appart for a good cleaning and oiling. This is where I encountered my first problem. It seems someone had sheered one of the shift pins in the drum. What was worse is it looked like they had jammed the broken pin back into it's hole. Luckily, I was able to walk it out with a pair of mettle sheers. So no harm done.

But the next part was much worse. I had to use a bearing puller to take the small bearing off the countershaft. Unlike the shaft of my 175, where the bearing just slides on and off with ease. Once I got the bearing off the reason for its tight fit was apparent. Someone had been grinding on the end of the shaft!

A week later and I had another countershaft - this one was perfect! So the transmission, and crankshaft are installed, along with pistons. And this time I installed the bearing plate. Everything spins smoothly and shifts as it should - N 1 2 3 4 5.

Also a little cutting and filing was completed on the cases. Making it a little easier to access the carbs, and trimming a little weight. This does leave me in need of a right side carb cover. Don't need one in good shape. The plan is to cut most of it off, and just use the clutch adjustment cover part. And I don't want to cut up the racer covers I have. So if you have one, Im interested.

Ignition is next! Stay tuned.

Driveshaft RS200 on top DT175 on the bottom

5th Gear RS200 on top DT175 on the bottom. Note that this is the early pre November '65 DT175 gear

DT175 countershaft with RS200 driveshaft. Note that the 175 outer gear (5th) sits wide on the 5th countershaft gear. Makes a hell of a racket when you spin the transmission.

The RS200 transmission. Note the 5th gear on both shafts. The driveshaft geer is narrower and more inset than the one on the DT175

Trimmed up clutch cover

Bad RS200 countershaft. Click through to zoom in.

The offending shift pin. Note the part still in the drum.
175 & 200 Talk / Re: Racer Resurrection
« Last post by al_pritchard on February 14, 2018, 02:56:43 PM »
Hey Paul,

That looks clean and tidy.

I was a little worried about making the cables. Turns out to not be to hard. I'll look into aircraft cable hangers, might be a good idea.
350 Talk / Re: VIN number on your 350 GTR/GTO title
« Last post by Old BS Guy on February 13, 2018, 09:21:14 PM »
Very true a high percentage of the time. In this case, someone guessed at the year to title it in Iowa after it had been sitting abandoned in a body shop. I went through the same thing with my 200RS Mach II, and for a similar reason. Got it corrected as well.
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