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Sye, I believe the case halves aren't interchangeable as they are machined as a set. Dan
Hi Sye, Can appreciate how teed off you feel, I'd be seething, especially as you checked the gears before bolting up. First the good news, the little dome on the crankcase bottom is part of the original casting, so I guess your cases should be OK. The correct bottom engine mounting bolts have a 45 degree taper machined on the inner end, IE , they are pointed. Found one of mine in the lower fork bridge ! The drum stopper spring is 33mm long X 7mm dia. Does the gear box select ok with the drum stopper removed ? Apologies if I'm teaching you to suck eggs here but one possible cause :- When the drum stopper is correctly inserted, the roller has to sit in the slot in the outer boss. This stops it twisting and keeps it in line with the star wheel on the shifter drum. If the drum stopper arm and roller are slightly twisted when the boss is inserted in the case, it will go in but cannot then fully retract into the slot and jams the shifter drum. With the bottom case sitting on the bench , it's easy to see if its gone in straight and into it's slot, not quite so easy when done under the engine in the frame. Might need a few attempts. Can post you a replacement spring if needed, it's one I made but then found an original. Would you have a pair of 57mm crank seals amongst your spares ? Brian.
Sye, I'm away at the moment so can't look at my parts book for the correct name for the star fish shaped thing that should turn as you move the gear change lever on the drum' you can fit that 180 degrees out by mistake which gives no gear change. Check it.ZP.s. it may be called the stopper plate?
Good call Z, enjoy your hols. Sye, there is a clue in the manual but you have to look darned hard to notice it. I only know this because it was pointed out to me (thanks Alan T). Must have got lucky last time I assembled a box See Manual, Page 19, Fig 35, titled Setting over-run stopper or P33, Fig 65-1. With the change arm at rest , the stopper plate should be fitted with a tooth pointing towards the change arm centre, the opposite side has a recess between the teeth. Also check the pawl springs are working properly, they can become squashed in their holes. The pawls can also be fitted the wrong way round. Not east to explain which way round they go. The pawl ends are not square but have a slight slope. The bottom of the slope should be facing outwards to contact the grooves in the shift drum. Think there was a post recently about the kick starter which uses the same pawl, that explains it better, will put up a link if I can find it. I really hope you can sort this one without having to split the engine again. Spin the gears using the chain sprocket when checking the gear operation. Brian.