Author Topic: 175 DT - 1966 (Read 40427 times)

OldSwartout · « **Reply #40 on:** July 09, 2015, 08:06:48 PM »

That's correct, but the number of revs to realign would take a more complicated calculation than my old head cares to do anymore.

slawsonb · « **Reply #41 on:** July 09, 2015, 08:39:29 PM »

As Karl would have gone on to point out had his "oldtimers" not kicked in (I can relate), its the ratio of the teeth on the various gears. Take the tooth number on the largest gear, divide by the number on the smallest and that will tell you how many times the small spins for one rev of the large. Same for the medium gear. It may take multiple spins of all to get back to the dots lines up state.
...bert

BRT-GTR · « **Reply #42 on:** July 10, 2015, 07:36:35 AM »

Hi All,
More mental chewing gum

as dcr said in a recent post. It's what keeps us oldies going, I think mines lost its flavour but at least the brain cells are now down to a manageable number !!

.

Can't see the crank gear to count the number of teeth but it should have the same number of teeth as the gear on the alternator (17). So for every full turn of the crank, the alternator also makes one full turn and keeps the timing in sync. It don't think it matters how many other gears, or how many teeth they have, in the chain. They turn more or less than one full revolution depending on how many teeth they have, so the dots go out of sync. I also haven't a clue how many turns it takes for them to line up again. $:-\$
I did have to test this out on a gtr engine to get my head round this one. It has 21 teeth on the crank but doesn't have the fibre intermediate gear, so is simpler.

Brian

dcr · « **Reply #43 on:** July 10, 2015, 08:53:46 AM »

I did some quick math and the number of revolutions required to realign the dots is equal to the number of licks it takes to get to the center of a Tootsie Pop. You have to be at least 40 to get that reference.

slawsonb · « **Reply #44 on:** July 10, 2015, 11:58:41 AM »

BlackJack does not loose it's flavor on the bed post over night (you definitely have to be over 40 to get that one).
...bert

coxy · « **Reply #45 on:** July 10, 2015, 05:25:45 PM »

when I first got my 175 the previous owner had put white dots on the gears to do the timing . I lined these dots up by turning the motor ,unfortunately these marks were so far off it wasn't funny and he had ground off the lug on the dynamo presumably to turn the dynamo to tune it ? its easy enough just to take everything off and reassemble matching the marks up

dcr · « **Reply #46 on:** July 15, 2015, 04:41:54 PM »

Anyone have experience on title searches? I've read the previous discussions here on getting a title and it seems to vary from state to state. There seems to be a loophole opportunity in Vermont - they will issue a title on any motorcycle if you provide them with a notarized bill of sale, Vermont DMV application, appropriate fees and proof of the VIN number. They will register the bike in Vermont regardless of your address and issue a title which can then be transferred to your home state. Not sure I believe all of this, but future investigation may reveal some truth to the matter.

My issue is a bike that was purchased with no title from a guy in PA that got it from a guy that got it from a guy. The bike had a 1976 NJ inspection sticker on it so I ordered a title search in NJ that came back as "no record found". I gave them the tag number and the frame number as possible VIN's to make sure. I'm not sure what NJ used for VIN's off the Bridgestone bikes. I cant imagine it was titled in another state based on the condition of the bike and the fact the NJ inspection sticker was still there.

I'm wondering if they might have used the number off the motor as the VIN or if a bike that hasn't been registered or tagged sine roughly 1976 would have fallen off the DMV records.

OldSwartout · « **Reply #47 on:** July 17, 2015, 07:53:21 AM »

FWIW, I have a 175HS from Wisconsin that is titled with the engine number from the clutch cover.

dcr · « **Reply #48 on:** September 19, 2015, 10:26:22 PM »

Updated photos - rolling chassis. I'm getting there.

slawsonb · « **Reply #49 on:** September 20, 2015, 11:31:42 AM »

She's sure looking good, dcr. Nice work!
...bertb

srpackrat49 · « **Reply #50 on:** September 20, 2015, 12:23:48 PM »

Well here in Oregon the DMV likes to see 16 digets on the #s On my 350GTO there are no numbers on the motor... just that tag

Once i took in a 1974 yamaha 200RD.... not 16 digets.... the women went NUTTS They seam to have only one way of thinking and its not vintage..... she said that i had alltered the ##s shit lady

all of the are the same..title,,, motor,,, frame...

cost about 145 bucks to get it changed into my name and taged i hate going to the DMV

dcr · « **Reply #51 on:** February 09, 2016, 01:11:51 PM »

Hoping for some input and guidance from the group on the crank issue.

The crank center bearing is of the early style with a groove around the circumference and no locator pin hole. The parts manual has 1 part number for the center bearing, but has 2 different numbers for the center seal – 1 before 16B and 1 after 16B.

Anyone have any experience with these 2 different types?

I have 2 NOS center bearings, but both are of the newer design – locator pin hole but no groove.

I see 2 solutions with the items I have in hand. The first is to drill the case for a locator pin and use the NOS bearing as it is. The other option is to throw the NOS bearing into a lathe and cut a groove in it that matches the original. I suspect cutting the groove would be the easiest, but maybe drilling the case would be the better idea since it utilizes what the BS engineers saw as an improved method.

bsracer · « **Reply #52 on:** February 10, 2016, 02:40:55 AM »

There are more than just a couple types of center bearings and seals. I have three or four different types of center bearings. The two you listed as well as one with two center grooves and I swear I took apart a motor with a ball bearing center bearing. There are even differences in similar style bearings. I think I have three different styles of the pinned type. One with a bronze cage with loose rollers (there are rod bearings just like these!) and two with different diameter center cases with different size rollers. The seals main difference is the early type are 20mm ID. The later are 28mm that use a sleeve on the crank to step up the size. Even these sleeves vary with some being solid and some have an oring.

I've had a good machinist add a locating pin to a set of cases. Adding a groove to a bearing can be done but may require precision grinding. If I remember there may not be a groove in the early cases for the locating clip the keeps the seal in place. The early 20mm seals are wider and don't require the clip. If I had some more time I'd document most of this. I'll try and snap pics in the future and post them when I can.

paul

p.s. as far as I know the later seals with the 28mm ID are not available along with the sleeve.

OldSwartout · « **Reply #53 on:** February 10, 2016, 10:29:07 PM »

I think Richard has the 28mm ID seals, but not the sleeves.

Richard Clark BS parts · « **Reply #54 on:** February 11, 2016, 06:49:20 AM »

dcr · « **Reply #55 on:** February 12, 2016, 01:05:54 PM »

Many things have just become a lot more clear - thanks for the explanations. Turns out all of the cranks I have are fitted with 28mm seals and have the sleeve pressed on. Getting the sleeve off looks to be an interesting undertaking. It has to come off to remove the center bearing inner race.

bsracer · « **Reply #56 on:** February 13, 2016, 10:23:13 AM »

I haven't had much good luck removing them. I always find one that I can clean up and use though. It occurred to me just now that since the bearing is going to be replaced, pull on it to try and move the race then move the bearing back to create a gap to pull the race. But I think I may have just chipped off the small lip on the bearing center race. It's been a while since I completely disassembled a whole crank.

paul

OldSwartout · « **Reply #57 on:** February 13, 2016, 01:43:16 PM »

I've taken some apart by pulling on the inner bearing race (also chipped a couple). It's been a while, but I think I used a torch to heat the sleeve and race to keep from breaking the lip. A thin chisel driven between the race and crank cheek also helps break it loose.

dcr · « **Reply #58 on:** February 19, 2016, 09:17:20 AM »

Picked my cylinders up this morning from Powerseal USA in Phoenixville PA. $25 each to strip the old chrome plating and $184 each to replate and hone. They look REALLY good and I will say they did a fantastic job that took less than 3 weeks. Cash deal was $400.00 out the door - $443.08 if credit card payment plus any shipping costs.

One of the advantages of Nikaseal (thats how they spell it) is I can run the more readily available NOS rings that were used in the cast iron bored 90cc bikes. Actually, thats what Powerseal recommended - the harder chrome plated rings.

grundlegrabber · « **Reply #59 on:** February 21, 2016, 03:53:42 PM »

The guys at Powerseal are great, have used them a few times in the past. Always very willing and helpful, and always excellent quality work and attention to detail.

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Author Topic: 175 DT - 1966 (Read 40427 times)

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